服裝設計的形式邏輯－「軟形式」

Formal Logic in Fashion: "The Soft Formation"

施雅玲(Ya-Lin Shih)

《實踐設計學報》 7期 (2013/10) Pp. 250-265

摘要

本文主要在實驗服裝設計的革新方法，並以原創的表現形式呈現之，命名為「軟形式」系列。「軟形式（the soft formation）」是筆者自創的服裝設計方法，大膽以西班牙建築大師高第的三張設計作品平面圖作為服裝的「預設版型」，分別在不同的研究條件限制之下，再發展出以相同建築設計平面圖為版型，運用不同立裁技法創作而產出多種不同款式，並且符合流暢線條的系列作品。本實驗以象徵高第天馬行空創作的「軟建築」設計為創作精神，結合立體結構與版型技巧，並且以挑戰市場可行性為設計目的，而非全然恣意、藝術化玩弄，亦完全不同於一般服裝創作模式。這樣的服裝創作理念與動機是發自於自我內心對於藝術「確定性」的懷疑，還有對於「不確定性」的反思，換言之，是對於服裝的結構思維如何跳出傳統窠臼的革新實驗。這個創作方法是前所未見的，筆者從未在任何文獻或資料當中發現曾經有人以此方式進行服裝或是其他創作，服裝創作在學理基礎與專業技術之下，若也能秉持如此創意自信的精神進行創作，才能推動真正原創、藝術精神與對於產業之貢獻。

關鍵字

形式 ； 預設版型 ； 確定性 ； 不確定性 ； 結構思維

並列摘要

The goal of this thesis is not only to experiment the innovative methods in fashion design but also to interpret design formats originally, called ”the soft formation”. ”The soft formation” creation method is a way to solve designers' problems those who has bundles in basic formats about creating new silhouettes and forms in fashion. The aim of this experiment is to investigate into the 3D pattern forms for fashion design method, through three of Antoni Gaudi Cornet's (1852~1926) blue prints, then we can make garment patterns by transforming more innovative thinking into creativities. To presuppose those blue print patterns as pattern-makings after draping works, so now, what we need to do is to ”drape” it over on a dressing form again! The draping results of garment also have to be marketable, not for artistic purpose only. I consider that the Skepticism as a very beginning motivation of fashion design activities due to start skeptic ”certainties”. This is also called an effort result of get rib of the bundle of certainty. As a positive skeptic who believes that does not to think matters of 3D pattern design by certain ways, and doubts on our ability to gain knowledge of fashion field, would be willing to obtain the solutions for skeptical things (uncertainty). To investigate new evolutions and options for garment constructions, the creation process is to innovate 3D patterns by using emerging technology, by means of keeping find out questions from something which has been proved.

並列關鍵字

Forms ； presuppose ； certainty ； uncertainty ； thinking of construction