歸0－繡揭露的自我

0: Self-Revelation through Embroidering

吳亭筠(Ting-Yun Wu) ； 陸蓉之(Yung-Chih Lu)

《實踐設計學報》 8期 (2014/10) Pp. 174-187

摘要

「保護」是服裝最基本的功能，而保護包括「生理的保護」和「心理的保護」，生理保護的服裝主要為禦寒及防止傷害；而心理保護的服裝則是作為「去邪護符」的作用。而當生理和安全需求已經被滿足時，就自然產生社會需求，在這個階段的人類開始產生自我與他人的相互依存性的心理，禮節的注重使人們開始鄙視所謂得衣冠不整，並在符合社會期待的社會化過程中，發展出與社會地位相對應的「角色」，服裝於此則為了確認穿著者的「社會角色」。一個人往往能夠透過服裝，以表徵其所具有的社會地位和角色以獲得社會的認可或接受。因此一個人的衣著本身則代表著個人的身分地位，同時反映個人於社會交往中對禮節、禮儀的重視程度。當服裝脫離原有的物質性而開始具有象徵階級、地位、權力等符號時，則必須藉由揮霍性的消費來滿足人類各種虛榮的想像。然而不管是「去邪護符」的心靈服裝，或是現在虛榮的去消費符號，都是為了能夠讓自己更快樂幸福。對於寄託、對於慰藉，則是從古至今身而為人的我們不會改變的心理。只是古時候的人們藉由穿著的當下召喚那種使自己心安的力量，而現在的人們則是藉由消費符號來彌補空虛的心靈。我在探索幼時記憶的過程中，試圖尋找真正「穿」的體驗、「寄託」的過程，那些至今都不曾拋棄的羈絆所能夠體驗到的幸福，而同時也是藉由服裝的依戀與包裹而去得到的支撐及慰藉。我希望在創作的過程中重新審視「穿」，這種已經被現代人稱為迷信的，最直接的穿著與對於服裝深沉的眷戀所給予人能量的行為。這是我試圖於符號化服裝、遠離服裝本質的現代，去尋找做真正的「服裝」的一種可能。

關鍵字

繡 ； 穿 ； 心理保護

並列摘要

＂Protection＂ is the basic function of clothes, including physical protection and psychological protection. Clothes keep the temperature and prevent injury physically. Clothes are as talisman in psychological aspect. Social needs occur while physical and safety requirements have been satisfied. In this stage, human have started generating psychology of interdependence between self and others. As courtesy oriented, people began to despise disheveled ones, and developed a role which corresponds to their social status during socialization. Thus, clothes anchor the social role of a wearer. A person can often be characterized by his social status, roles, and also obtain social recognitions or acceptances through clothing. Therefore, a person's clothes represent the position of the identity of the individual, while reflecting personal social interaction etiquette, decorum, and the degree of attention. When clothes are away from the original material and become a symbol of class, status, and power, the existence of clothes must fulfill a variety of human's vain imagination by profligate consumption. However, whether spiritual clothing as talismanorsat is faction of vain imaginations by consuming symbols are both to make themselves happier. Sustenance and comfort are needed from ancient times to modern world that will not be changed. In ancient times, people dressed up themselves to feel peace; in contrast, people now compensate their empty heart by consuming symbols. I am trying to find a real experience of wearing. I am able to experience happiness in the process of exploring childhood memories from those unabandoned fetter, and find the support and comfort by wrapping with passion. I hope to re-exam ＂wearing＂ in the process of creation, which is called superstition in modern society. But I still believe that energy is given by in a deep love of clothing and wearing. I try to avoid ＂symbolic clothing＂ which belongs to modern definition, and find a possibility of making ＂real clothes＂.

並列關鍵字

Embroider ； Wear ； Psychological Protection