儒式婚服研究與設計－新婦禮服

本研究系接受台北市孔廟管理委員會的委託，進行「儒式婚禮」新人服飾設計。此活動之目的以融入人倫、義禮、孝道之儒家精神為活動核心，希望透過古典婚禮儀典彰顯婚姻之隆重與神聖性。本研究以《儀禮．士昏禮》記載之周代服飾為藍本，同時以〈士冠禮〉和〈士喪禮〉兩個篇章之重要典禮禮服相互推論印證。在典籍考證上盡量搜尋、充分旁徵比對，歸納整理出目前可能獲得最接近事實的形象，做為設計的主軸依據。在服飾設計製作概念不是重製，而是在不偏離古籍《儀禮‧士昏禮》的形象原則下，考量現時代人的美感意識、心理認知和生活風俗等條件，努力嘗試做「儒式」婚禮服的詮釋設計。本研究設計對象包含證婚人、結婚婿婦以及擯禮禮生四種角色，本文為新婦（新娘）禮服服裝部分之報告。

關鍵字

結婚禮服；新娘；研究與設計；儒式

並列摘要

The research was commissioned by the Taipei Confucius Temple Governing Board to design Confucian wedding dresses for marrying couples. The purpose of this event would like to stress the core spirit of Confucianism, such as humanism, morality, and filial piety, and the solemn and sacred nature of marriage through classic wedding rituals. The study was based on Zhou Dynasty costumes documented in the ＂Book of Etiquette and Ceremonial.＂ Inferences were further made with references in the chapters of ＂Shihun li (Nuptial rites for a common officer) and ＂Shi sang li (Mourning rites for the common officer).＂ Images were sourced and generalized through vast amount of literature studies and comparisons, serving as the basis of design. In terms of the making of costumes, since ＂reproduction＂ may not be feasible certain adaptations were made under the guideline of the ＂Book of Etiquette and Ceremonial＂ to accommodate modern aesthetics, perceptual cognition, and living customs to achieve the ＂representation＂ of Confucian wedding dresses. The commissioned works include four types of outfits for the witnesses, marrying couple, and compère. This paper initially presents the wedding dress for the bride.