中藥美容於歷代典籍中記載之研究－兼論可添加於化粧品中之中藥品項

國內化品市場，宣稱具保濕、美白、抗老、除皺等不同功能的含中藥化品之種類與數量繁多，且有日益增多的趨勢。目前國內的化品相關法規中，針對化品內的中藥規定付之闕如，使業者於開發含中藥化品時，面臨無相關規定可以遵循的窘境。本研究之目的在於探討可添加於化品內中藥材品項，包括正面表列與負面表列品項之探查，以作為將來相關法規訂定的參考依據。實施方法以檢索中醫古籍、研究論文期刊、網路資訊搜尋及參考各國法規資料進行各項美容相關資料之蒐集整理及評析討論。研究結果顯示在古代典籍中有關美容美白、美顏、潤肌膚、面脂相關的中醫名詞 75個，3827筆，而在本草綱目查到的美容相關辭彙共有64種，455筆。美容相關的中文期刊論文，共466篇。日本含中藥化品資料102筆。中國大陸禁用中草藥種屬14種，禁用中藥品項59種。本研究結果已收集化品內中藥材正面表列與負面表列之相關資料，未來將可作為國內規劃中藥化品相關管理法規之參考依據。

關鍵字

含中藥的化品；化品法規；正面表列；負面表列

並列摘要

The number of Chinese herb-containing cosmetic products has been increasing in the market. There are various types of Chinese herb-containing cosmetic products which claim moisturizing, whitening, anti-ageing and anti-wrinkle effects, respectively. The government has to follow the international standards to make the regulations and laws of Chinese herb-containing cosmetic products, and establish the standard evaluation platform of stability, safety and effectiveness of Chinese herb-containing cosmetic products. Certainly, it is necessary to make requirements of quality control of Chinese herb-containing cosmetics. So far, none of the cosmetic regulations and laws has shown to the manufactures what kind of Chinese herb could be added into the cosmetic formulations. Indeed, the manufactures do not know which item of Chinese herb could be contained in the products. Therefore, it is necessary to study the positive list and negative list items of Chinese herb used in cosmetic formulations. Methods of the projects includes (1) Search related news of Chinese herb-containing cosmetics by network.(2) Collect the regulations and laws of Chinese herb-containing cosmetics from different countries. The positive list includes 75 types, 3827 items of beauty-related terms from traditional Chinese herb textbooks. Additionally, 64 types and 455 items of such terms were also found from the book Herb Outline. We have read 466 journal papers about beauty topic. Furthermore, 102 items of Chinese herb-containing cosmetics have also found from Japan. The negative list contains 14 species and 59 items of Chinese herb from mainland of china. The preliminary results has shown the possible positive and negative list items of Chinese herbs could be added in the cosmetic formulations, which may act as a reference for the government to make the regulations and laws of Chinese herb-containing cosmetics.