臺灣印尼客籍移民「粄」文化之初探

The Initial Study of Indonesian Hakka's Ban Foods Culture in Taiwan

林鍵璋(Chien-Chang Lin)

《中華飲食文化學術研討會論文集》 第12屆 (2011/11) Pp. 573-588

https://doi.org/10.6641/PICCFC.91012.2011.12.28

摘要

本文主旨是在探討臺灣近二十年來，臺灣外籍女性婚媚移民大量移人，其中也以桃園縣為外籍女性婚姻移民入口最多的縣市，而在這些外籍女性婚姻移民人口中，也以印尼客籍女性婚姻移民來到臺灣的時間，較其他東南亞籍的女性婚姻移民來的早一些，在客家的文化傳承上也扮演著相當重要的角色，印尼客籍女性婚姻移民所帶來不同於臺灣的客家粄食文化，也豐富了臺灣多元的客家飲食文化。「粄食」一直是客家族群的共同記憶，然而印尼客籍女性婚姻移民，所帶來的粄食文化，似乎又和臺灣的客家粄食，有些許的變化及差異，筆者透過族群認同及被認同、多元文化、文化符號、相互融合、印尼客籍女性婚姻移民的族群集體記憶的相關課題，對印尼客家「粄食」文化做相關的探討，「粄食」是作為印尼客家文化和臺灣客家文化的共通基石，筆者在訪談的過程，增進不少筆者對於印尼客家文化的認知，筆者也能在這樣立基點上，探究這相似卻又不相同於臺灣的印尼客家「粄」文化，期許透過本研究能讓更多人，認識這群默默的無名英雌，及他們本身所擁有不同於臺灣的客家飲食文化。

關鍵字

印尼客籍女性婚姻移民 ； 文化符號 ； 客家族群 ； 粄文化 ； 共同記噫

並列摘要

The study is aimed to research how the Indonesian Hakka's Ban foods culture III Taiwan is different from local ones, which enriches diverse Hakka diet culture in Taiwan. Taiwan has many female marriage immigrants from overseas over two decades, most live in Taoyuan county, and Indonesian Hakka females have immigrated to Taiwan by marriage earlier than others from other Southeast Asia, which playing an important role in carrying on Hakka culture. Ban foods are Hakka's collective memories, but the Ban foods culture which was brought in Taiwan by Indonesian Hakka females is little different from local ones. It is to study the Ban foods culture of Indonesian Hakka by analyzing tribe identification, multi-cultures, culture symbols, integration, and marriage immigrants' collective memories, etc. Ban foods are common binding Indonesian Hakka culture and local Hakka culture together in Taiwan, and the author knows more about Hakka culture by interviewing some immigrants. Based on above, the study is aimed to let more people know about Indonesian Hakka females and their Hakka culture by researching the similar but not the same Hakka Ban foods culture.

並列關鍵字

Female marriage immigrants of Indonesian Hakka ； culture symbol ； Hakka ； Ban foods culture ； collective memory