中華料理不全是因政經動亂遷往海外的華僑所依存的職業活動,也是因學業工作旅住國外的留學生要打理的家常便飯,所謂「中華料理」的剖析或許可從華語商人銷售的異國美食層級視野轉變成反映華人留學生基本的飲食社會功能探究。筆者以法國臺灣留學生群裡盛行的「滷一鍋」現象為例來討論華人短期移民國外的料理內涵、實踐;觀察記錄十四位於2006年在法國里昂留學臺灣人的飲食、購物。為何「滷」的料理價值在臺灣人旅居法國社會背景中倍受重視?在華人超商不普遍的城市裡,這群出了國才學會做菜的臺灣學生如何拼湊食材?滷好的一鍋料理要怎樣搭配自己熟悉的餐點或者宴請他人?而這道菜在不同求學階段、生活狀況的得生身上又是什麼意義?這篇實證研究旨在討論非長期移民生活的飲食內容。
The Chinese culinary practices are not only professional activities on which depend particularly the diaspora but also private worry for oversea students and workers in private. The problem of the chinese food can be placed by the culinary exoticism (gastronomy) in the social function (every day cooking). According to this question, the author presents the results of an investigation with fourteen taiwanese students living in Lyon about their food habits and purchases: why stewing is specially valued in french social background. As these students dependent on the food of street, how do they learn, under cultural and socioeconomic constraints, eating at home? What is the role of stew in alone eating and in food sharing? In succesives phases of the stay and in various way of life, what sens does reproduce a meal compounds of the stewed dishes? This proposal has for objective to give an empirical example about food of migration non for long-term.
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