啤酒花萃取物對人體皮膚細胞抗光老化之評估

Evaluation of anti-photoaging activity of hops extract on human skin cells

楊宜蓁(Yi-Chen Yang)

指導教授 ： 游若篍

國立臺灣大學/生物資源暨農學院/食品科技研究所/碩士(2015年)

https://doi.org/10.6342/NTU.2015.10292

摘要

皮膚老化可分為自然老化與光老化，由紫外光所導致的光老化，對皮膚所造成的影響更為顯著，包含皺紋生成、乾澀、鬆弛、黑色素沈澱，甚至導致皮膚癌。UVA 能穿透至真皮層，刺激細胞產生大量ROS，同時抑制膠原蛋白生成與促進基質金屬蛋白酶 (Matrix metalloproteinases, MMPs) 的活性，進而加速胞外基質 (Extracellular matrix, ECM) 降解，最終使皮膚失去彈性與保水力；高能量的UVB造成的損害尤其嚴重，除了使角質細胞受損、加速黑色素生成之外，可能還會造成DNA或蛋白質等分子的損害，甚至引發癌變。先前研究證實啤酒花具有良好抗菌、抗發炎、抗氧化、抗癌等功效，此外啤酒花酸與黃腐醇在體外試驗中皆有效抑制MMP-1、MMP-8活性，細胞模式中亦指出黃腐醇能刺激纖維母細胞生成彈性蛋白與第一型膠原蛋白，並抑制黑色素生成。本研究以UVA、UVB分別誘導人類皮膚纖維母細胞CCD-966SK與角質細胞HaCaT造成急性光損傷，評估預處理或共處理啤酒花水萃物 (HWE) 及乙醇萃取物 (HEE) 對皮膚抗光老化之功效。結果顯示，在抑制酪胺酸酶試驗中，HWE與HEE抑制效果非常有限，此外HEE具有潛在光毒性質；HWE在UV誘導模式下，可顯著提升細胞存活率，在共處理條件下可同時降低CCD-966SK與HaCaT細胞內ROS含量，並抑制MMP-1分泌量；此外100g/mL HWE可促進CCD-966SK膠原蛋白生成；在高劑量UVB誘導模式下，預處理或共處理HWE，皆可減緩HaCaT細胞的DNA損傷，顯示HWE具有抗光老化之功效，兼具安全性與功效性，適合開發為保養品成分。

關鍵字

啤酒花萃取物 ； 皮膚光老化 ； 基質金屬蛋白酶 ； 膠原蛋白 ； 酪胺酸酶

並列摘要

Skin aging can be divided into natural aging and photoaging, influenced by several factors. UV is considered one of the most important causes of skin photoaging, including wrinkling and hyperpigmentation. Wrinkle formation is relevant to degradation of extracellular matrix (ECM), especially collagen, the major materials that provides structural to the skin. UVA radiation promotes the generation of oxygen species (ROS) and synthesis of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) in dermal fibroblast. It was suggested that MMPs contribute to the breakdown of dermal interstitial collagen and other connective tissue components. Except direct damage in skin cells, UVB may accelerate melanogenesis and cause DNA or protein damage, and even lead to cancer. In previous studies, hops have attracted a great deal of attention as a source of small molecules such as humulone, lupulone and xanthohumol with potential for beneficial effects on anti-bacterial, anti-inflammatory, anti-oxidation and anti-cancer. Hops bitter acid and xanthohumol can inhibit MMP-1 and MMP-8 activity in vitro. Xanthohumol can stimulate elastin and type I collagen production in fibroblasts. The aim of this study was to evaluate pretreatment or co-treatment of HWE and HEE with UVA or UVB for skin anti-photoaging potential, UVA and UVB were respectively induced CCD-966SK and HaCaT cells, leading to acute light damage. The results showed that, the inhibition rate of HWE and HEE to mushroom tyrosinase were very limited. Thought HEE has higher antioxidant potential, it may be phototoxic. In UV-induced model, HWE can significantly enhance cell viability, while reducing the ROS production in CCD-966SK and HaCaT cells. Moreover, HWE inhibited the secretion of MMP-1, and we found that 100 μg/mL HWE can increase collagen production in CCD-966SK cells. At high doses of UVB irradiation, both treatments can suppress DNA damage, showing that HWE has anti-photoaging effect. In conclusion, these results show that HWE is more suitable than HEE for skin care products ingredients.

並列關鍵字

hops extract ； skin photoaging ； matrix metalloproteinases ； collagen ； tyrosinase

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