「家」與「烹調」意涵的再想像—4F Cooking Home烹飪班的場域經驗

飲食的生產和消費一旦和空間向度結合，學術系譜裡往往以「家庭飲食」或「外食」區分之，然而這樣的界分卻模糊了「烹飪班」這個場域本身的獨特性。「烹飪班」作為公領域，在過往似乎只是「家」這個私領域的附庸，協助培育家務勞動者，促成家的再生產。然而都會生活型態、家庭結構與飲食方式的變化，當今家庭飲食逐漸式微，烹飪班也透過空間營造、課程制度、上課流程等設計，建構自身的自明性，轉化「家」與「烹調」的意涵。透過對4F Cooking Home烹飪班的觀察，與對烹飪班參與者的訪談，發現「家」之於烹飪，仍然是吸引人的懷舊修辭。「家」元素使課程參與者更容易連結自身與此場域經驗，並進一步將場域裡所營造的「理想的家」的想像，投射到原有的生活裡。然而，烹飪班也藉由營造自身與「家」的差異，企圖擺脫日常飲食生產平庸無趣的印象，以及飲食勞動作為家務責任的傳統包袱。烹飪班的飲食實作，實為一場經過精心排演的廚藝秀。其緊湊的過程，極大化了飲食勞動及用餐過程的感官體驗，極小化了餐席間的社會互動。對參與者來說，這個場域體驗乃是獨特、別於日常的，與他們真實的日常生活有段距離。因此，他們再現這個體驗的方式，並非將其回饋到家庭的廚事勞動或家人同桌共食的社會關係之中，而是以影像、書寫等記錄，以及在特殊場合展現廚藝技巧，來彰顯個人品味及生活風格，建構社群關係。當今烹飪班創造了一個皮相似家，實然非家的空間。「家」傳統上被定義為基於血緣形成的空間社會單元，但從烹飪班這種社會場域的角度觀之，「家」的意涵在當今都市生活的脈絡裡逐漸鬆動，成為社群式的網絡連結；「烹飪」則從「家庭再生產」的工具，擴大為展現個人資本、滋養網絡社會關係的手段。

關鍵字

家；外食；烹飪班；體驗；生活風格；品味

並列摘要

When it comes to food production/consumption and space, the discussions on the contrast of “eating in” and “eating out” are common in previous academic studies. However, a social space such as cooking studios isn’t able to be properly explained respectively by these two models. As a public realm, cooking studios used to serve as a backstage of home kitchens, aiming on cultivating women’s kitchen skills and contributing to the reproduction of home. With the changes of urban lifestyles, family meals are dying out, while cooking studios are prospering through constructing their own field characteristics. To explore changes of the meaning of home and cooking, I investigated on a specific cooking studio “4F Cooking Home” and conducted interviews with its participants. It is found that “home” is still an appealing nostalgic rhetoric, which enables the participants to associate themselves with their experiences at 4F. However, 4F attempted to distinguish itself by avoiding the ordinary and obligatory image of family food production/consumption. The process of food production at 4F is in fact a cooking show, which maximized sensual experiences while minimized potential social interactions over the table. To the participants, the experiences at 4F are unique from their ordinary life. Instead of putting the skills into use back in their home kitchens, they tried to represent their experiences by photos, writings, or making a feast on special occasions, so as to demonstrate their personal tastes and lifestyles as well as to create social bonds. In short, the cooking studio is a unique social field in home’s clothing, yet its identity is to be declared. “Home” is traditionally defined as a spatial-social entity based on blood ties. Nevertheless, the meaning of home has expanded to be more than blood-tied family relations. It has turned into a friendship-based social network. Moreover, cooking has also changed its role from a household chore for home reproduction, to a means of demonstrating personal capitals as well as nurturing social bonds.

並列關鍵字

home ； eating out ； cooking studio ； experience ； lifestyle ； taste

參考文獻

翁註重、許聖倫（2009）大灶的科技與文化形式分析。設計學報，14（3），頁5。

林鐘雄（1988）台灣經濟發展40年。台北：自立晚報出版部。

周宜潔（2009）烹飪文化資本、文化中介者與飲食品味塑造：以農會家政班為例。台灣大學生物產業傳播暨發展學研究所碩士論文。

Bell, D. & Valentine, G.(1997). Consuming geographies: We are where we eat. London: Routledge.

Crang, P. (1994). It’s showtime: On the workplace geographies of display in a restaurant in southeast England. Environmental and Planning D: Society and Space, 12, 675-704

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「家」與「烹調」意涵的再想像—4F Cooking Home烹飪班的場域經驗

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