時尚消費：服裝品味的社會建構

Consumption of Fashion:Social construction of Clothing taste

李商旎(Shang-Ni Lee)

指導教授 ： 高榮禧

共同指導教授 ： 楊淑娟

淡江大學/外國語文學院/法國語文學系碩士班/碩士(2012年)

https://doi.org/10.6846/TKU.2012.01328

摘要

身處在資訊發達及產品過剩的時代，訊息流動快速且不斷推陳出新的商品，使得物質需求不再是消費的動機，且符號價值取代使用價值，讓整個消費領域進入符號系統中運作，尤其是符號當中的時尚，經由媒體包裝與宣傳，讓時尚成為指導性的消費原則，並任意的被商人轉化與運用，讓所有可販售的商品與服務，都進入時尚體系裡進行符號再製造，讓人們消費時不僅依循著符號結構並同樣在追求時尚。

　　針對時尚的概念，齊美爾與布希亞提出各自的看法，兩人都認可其變換多端且轉瞬即逝的特性，以及追求過程中的模仿機制，而符號的易複製性往往讓時尚迅速消失，進而產生新的時尚，且不斷循環下去。然而，追求時尚最普遍的形式為服裝消費，所以其多變的特性也展現在服裝系統中，因此往往導致人們過度消費。於是，布赫迪厄提出由社會建構的品味概念，成為個人在追求時尚及時尚消費時的準則，尤其在充滿符號及許多象徵性作用的服裝中，更必須依賴品味。當人們在追求時尚的同時，也持續建構服裝品味，建構的方式必須包含消費與文化的實踐和時尚與服裝的實踐，也就是說，品味在於消費行為及生活模式，還有時尚與服裝的運用，而建構的目的與追求時尚的目的相同，皆為了展現個人社會身分、地位及形象，並藉此與他人區分。

　　因此，本論文關注在時尚消費的形式與建構服裝品味之間的關係，兩者相互作用且彼此影響，進而展現在服裝的消費選擇與行為模式，於是服裝經由時尚符號的文化再生產及文化實踐後，品味便能體現一系列的時尚消費。所以，第一部分先介紹時尚的歷史及概念，並解釋與時尚相關的名詞，強調時尚的特性與本質，再帶入承載時尚體系的服裝分析。第二部分則強調當前消費社會形成的原因及時尚消費的趨勢，這當中的符號秩序，讓身體與服裝都受到社會秩序的規範，進而影響人們生理與心理層面。於是，第三部分分為時尚消費的社會層面與心理層面，前者為品味的建立，後者為精神的反應，並延續前面兩部分，針對品味是一種內隱的社會架構與秩序經由時尚消費，來建構服裝品味。

關鍵字

時尚消費 ； 符號秩序 ； 身體 ； 品味 ； 服裝 ； 區隔

並列摘要

We now live in an information rich and excessive resources era. Thus, material needs no longer are the primary motivations in consumers and the value symbolic have replaced the value practical, resulting the whole consumption territory is based on a system of sign. Especially, the fashion within a sign. Via the packaging and advertisement of the media, fashion becomes dominant consumption principle. The manipulations by the businessmen have incorporated the consumer products and services into the fashion system. Therefore, consumers not only following the structure symbolic but also the fashion. Simmel and Baudrillard have proposed different views on fashion. One commonality is that both of them think fashion can be interchangeable and instantaneous. Also, due to the easy replication of the products, fashion can disappear instantly. The rapid changes in fashion have made consumers over spending. Bourdieu have proposed via the concept of taste built up by the social structure, we can continue building the fashion sense by changing our consumption behavior and living style. However, the ultimate goal is to distinguish one from another and the difference in social status. This thesis focuses on the relationship between the consumption pattern and constructing a clothing style and how both inter-related with one another, in which later resulting consumption selections and different behavior patterns. The first part of introduces fundamental concept and history of fashion and also some relevant and important terms. The second part places a strong emphasis on how modern society consumption is formed and the trend in fashion consumption and how these are related to the human physical and mental aspect. The last part divides fashion consumption into social aspect and mental aspect. The former requires the building of fashion sense and latter requires mental reaction. Lastly, how fashion sense is related to social structure and stability and how this ultimately construct the sense for clothing.To talk about the concept of Fashion, Simmel and Baudrillard think that Fashion is changeable and vanishingly in a flash, and they both agree the Imitation Mechanism in the process. In Fashion, the quality of changeable makes people over purchasing; the quality of easy to imitate makes itself to disappear instantly, then more new fashion will be created and circulated on and on. Bourdieu brought up an idea of Social Construction and it becomes the standard of pursuing and purchasing Fashion. The taste is built up on the behavior of purchasing, living model, the way to perform Fashion and clothing. The purpose of establishing the taste is the same with pursuing Fashion, they both exhibit the personal stoical status and image. In conclusion, the thesis is about the relationship in between fashion consuming style and establishing taste. In my point of view, they are affected by each other and the result shows in the consuming choice and behavior pattern. The taste is reflected in the fashion consuming through the re-produce of Sign and the culture accomplishment.

並列關鍵字

Fashion Consumption ； body ； taste ； clothing ； distinction

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