紡織品瑕疵之要因分析研究

Factor Analysis of Defects of Fabrics

黃振麒(Chen-Chi Huang)

指導教授 ： 趙豫州

國立臺北科技大學/工程學院/有機高分子研究所/碩士(2006年)

https://doi.org/10.6841/NTUT.2006.00337

摘要

根據近十二年之瑕疵客訴案件統計分析結果得知，以條斑瑕疵(橫條、直條)所佔比例為最大(約65％)。瑕疵造成的原因，則以紗線因為主(約52％)、織造因次之(約25％)。經探討發現要因的形成，主要為批次(批號)管理及品質管制不當所致，故加強批次(批號)管理及品質管制可有效防止瑕疵產生。以往紡織品發生瑕疵均依循舊有之經驗與模式解決，僅能解決一時的問題，不能正本清源。因此藉由系統且客觀合理的方法，可正確且迅速的研判瑕疵產生的原因。
本研究係分析不同纖維之成品布與成衣之瑕疵，利用數位影像分析系統先進行紡織品瑕疵部位表面之形態及微細構造之外觀觀察，再根據結果研擬分析項目，經由各種分析方法(如紗線外觀觀察、物理性分析、化學性分析與再現性分析等)，以及相關紡織染整知識與文獻來鑑定其發生之成因是屬於原料因、紗線因、織造因或染整因，建立迅速且正確判定織品瑕疵原因的方法。

關鍵字

數位影像分析系統 ； 瑕疵布 ； 斑點 ； 破洞 ； 橫條 ； 直條 ； PU彈性絲

並列摘要

According to the results of statistic analysis for textile defect claim cases in recent 12 years, streakiness ( barr’e, strip ) occupies the major proportion (about 65%). The cause of these defects included mainly yarn problem (about52%) and secondly weaving problem (about 25%). To further discuss the causes, it was found that the problems mainly came from improper batch (lot number) management and poor quality control. Therefore, improving batch (lot number) management and quality control was the key to prevent the streakiness defect. However, whenever the defect claim happened, people usually solved the dispute with former experience or mode. The problem disappeared for a while without total solution. Therefore, using systemic and objective method to study the defect causes was able to determine the causes of the defects accurately and efficiently.
This article studied the defects of finished fabrics and garments made by various fibers. Firstly, Digital Image Process Analyzer was used to observe the defect exteriors, as well as study their surface morphology and microstructure. According to the above conclusion, the analysis items were designed. The defect causes could be classified as material, yarn, weaving or dying and finishing by different analysis methods (such as appearance observation, physical analyses, chemical analyses and re-producing tests) and by knowledge or historical documents of dyeing and finishing. Herein the efficient and accurate methods for textile defect analyses were established.

並列關鍵字

Fabric Image Process Analyzer ； defect goods ； spots ； breach ； Barr’e ； Streak ； PU elastic filament

參考文獻

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