纖維素薄膜製備和特性於化粧品的應用潛力

Preparation and Characterization of Cellulose Polymer Films for Potential Cosmetic Application

黃柏渝(Po-Yu Huang)

指導教授 ： 蔡翠敏

臺北醫學大學/口腔醫學院/生醫材料暨工程研究所/碩士(2011年)

https://doi.org/10.6831/TMU.2011.00163

摘要

果酸在化粧品中常廣泛的使用於皮膚脫屑或換膚，此實驗中嘗試使用高分子量的纖維素聚合物來製作成薄膜的劑型，並嘗試在薄膜的劑型中承載不同性質的甘醇酸(親水性物質)和水楊酸(疏水性物質)，並分析兩種物質在製備成薄膜後的pH值、表陎特性、含水量和承載率。
薄膜製備中選擇了多種不同的高分子材料，當中的甲殼素主要是做為提供抗菌效果的主要成分，並使用羥丙基甲基纖維素 ( hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, HPMC )、羥丙基纖維素 ( hydroxypropyl cellulose, HPC) 和羧甲基纖維素 ( carboxymethylcellulose, CMC)作為承膜的材料。在低pH值環境中HPMC和HPC的使黏稠度下降，相較於HPMC和HPC，CMC的黏稠度較不受pH變化而影響，在劑型中增加HPMC和CMC的比例可以增加薄膜的硬度，但是相對的會使得薄膜的彈性下降，而在比例中增加HPC的含量則會使的薄膜更加柔軟和更有彈性。在材料中選擇citrate buffer主要是做為緩衝溶液，使薄膜在製備後或者貼覆於皮膚時的pH值能夠符合台灣衛生署的規定。材料選擇中使用Glycerol和Polyethylene glycol 400做為塑化劑，在劑型中用來增加薄膜的膨潤度、吸濕性和含水量。

關鍵字

甘醇酸 ； 水楊酸 ； 薄膜 ； pH ； 抗菌效果 ； 承載率

並列摘要

Hydroxyl acids have been widely used in skin peeling and desquamation. This study was to use high-molecular-weight cellulose polymers in film formulation to carry glycolic acid (hydrophilic) and salicylic acid (hydrophobic), and characterize the pH, surface property, moisture content, and loading rate of the prepared films.
Chitosan was included in the formulation to offer the antibacterial fuction. Hydroxypropyl methylcellulose (HPMC), hydroxypropyl cellulose (HPC), and carboxymethylcellulose (CMC) were added in the formulation due to their film-forming characteristics. The viscosity of HPMC and HPC decreased significantly when they were exposed to a low pH condition. The viscosity of CMC was less affected by pH. Increase the ratio of HPMC and CMC in the formulation resulted in increasing the strength but decreasing the flexibility of the resulting films. Increase the ratio of HPC in the formulation generated a softer and more flexible texture. Citrate buffer was used to maintain the pH of the formula. Glycerol and polyethylene glycol 400 were used as plasticizers in the formulation to increase the swelling rate, moisture uptake, and moisture content of the resulting films. By increasing the amount of glycerol in the formulation, the films were found to be more flexible, but too much PEG400 rendered the forming films to be fragile. The limiting concentration of glycolic acid and salicylic acid that can be used in a cosmetic preparation was 10% and 2%, respectively. Several film preparations with satisfying characteristics for potential cosmetic application were successfully developed.

並列關鍵字

glycolic acid ； salicylic acid ； film ； pH ； antibacterial ； loading rate

參考文獻

49. Fujiwara, K., Aibara, K., Handbook of Food Hygiene. 1992, Nankodo, Tokyo.

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