泰雅服飾文化的保存與當代詮釋:以野桐工坊的實踐為例

The Preservation and Contemporary Interpretation of Atayal’s Clothing Culture: A Case Study of Lihang Studio

黎芮伶(JUEI-LING LI)

指導教授 ： 王嵩山

國立臺北藝術大學/文化資源學院學術論文/博物館研究所碩士班/碩士(2016年)

摘要

當代博物館開始關注原住民對於自身文化的保存與詮釋，而文化的保存與發展是一個動態的過程。服飾作為文化的載體，不同世代的人則作為文化的創造者，本文試圖透過一個泰雅服飾的例子，來探討兩者之間如何相互影響。此外，文化會隨著時代變遷而改變，然而文化變遷的方式與文化特性息息相關，當代泰雅人如何用文化思維吸收外來的新事物，以保存並詮釋其服飾文化？最後，作為文化保存機構的博物館，在如此文化再現的過程中，扮演了什麼樣的角色？
本文以服飾文化的保存與詮釋為主題，並以苗栗泰安鄉的野桐工坊為研究對象，試圖回應以上問題。主要以參與觀察與深度訪談的方式，透過「彩虹與蜻蜓：泰雅服飾與排灣琉璃珠的對話」特展中的展覽主題「泰雅當代織品：跨越與連結」，以及「森林之心：色・舞・繞泰雅服裝秀」活動中，瞭解泰雅人如何在當代社會中，試著保有文化主體性地延續其服飾文化。

關鍵字

博物館 ； 泰雅族 ； 服飾 ； 野桐工坊

並列摘要

These days museums across the globe have begun to pay attention to indigenous people’s preservation and interpretation of their cultures, which in essence is a dynamic process. The present paper uses the Atayal’s traditional clothing as an example for the author to examine how clothing and people from different generations have both exerted influence on each other. While cultural change takes time to occur, the way a culture undergoes transformations is closely associated with its cultural attributes. Also, how do the contemporary Atayal absorb foreign things with an awareness of their own culture, so as to preserve and interpret Atayal clothing culture in the contemporary context？ Lastly, what kind of role does a museum actually play in preserving indigenous people’s cultural heritages in the process of cultural representation?
This paper aims to answer the above questions by examining how Atayal clothing culture has been preserved and widely interpreted in Taiwan, using Lihang Studio as a starting point. By employing participant observation and in-depth interviews, this study used the following exhibition and event, Rainbow and dragonfly: where the Atayal clothing meet the Paiwan multi-colored glass beads, Contemporary Atayal Textiles: surpassing and connecting, and S’uraw Atayal Fashion Show at Shei-pa National park, as examples for a better understanding of the Atayal clothing culture. The ultimate aims are to discover how the Atayal have represented their traditional clothing without losing cultural uniqueness till today and to serve as useful reference for future researchers.

並列關鍵字

Museum ； Atayal ； Clothing ； Lihang Studio

參考文獻

族，黃文新、余萬居譯，中央研究院民族學研究所編譯。臺北：中央研究

王梅霞，2003。從Gaga的多義性看泰雅族的社會性質。臺灣人類學刊，1(1)：

王梅霞，2006。泰雅族。臺北：三民書局。

王梅霞、伊婉・貝林，2012。「文化動起來」：賽德克族文化產業的研究。民

居譯，中央研究院民族學研究所編譯。臺北：中央研究院民族學研究所。