台灣『水姑娘』百年物語─傳統理想女性美研究1861-1960

1861-1960 Centennial Evolutionism of Taiwan “Xuigoniu-Legend”--A Study on the “Belle of Conventional Ideal Female”

徐端儀(Tuan-Yi Hsu)

指導教授 ： 阮昌銳

國立臺北藝術大學/文化資源學院學術論文/建築與文化資產研究所/碩士(2012年)

https://doi.org/10.6835/TNUA.2012.00002

摘要

台灣傳統女性理想美在這百年來（西元1861~1960），較過去千百年來的緩慢進程，呈現了劇烈變化，女性審美在傳統�現代、東方�西方、中國�日本、乃至意象�形體美之間擺盪。而審美也是藝術表現之一，總是與社會需求相聯結，伴隨著社會脈動而變化，絕對不是偶然形成的。
在這百年來，無論是談到台灣女性身體，或者形於外的服飾，一言以蔽之：女性理想美都在ㄧ步步走向追求曲線美。傳統漢儒體制下的女體，在父權凝視下尊崇三從四德的至高準則；所以當西方衡量萬物之美的「審美尺度」概念被導入，本地女性審美也從原本的意象美，轉為講求尺寸比例的形體美。而被視為是自我延伸的服飾，也擺脫了過去傳統服制服色的重重規範，開始以實用和表現身體動感至上。身體觀的轉變和女性曲線美，正是本研究的二大重點。
百年來台灣女性審美受文化經驗與時代影響甚巨，不諱言來自西化的衝激最大，其間又以日治中期（西元1915~1935）為最大轉折點。女性審美向來有人言人殊，與時俱變的特性。台灣早期為移民社會，關於這方面的文獻寥寥，希望藉由一些視覺上的資料（如照片、繪畫、明信片、廣告）來佐證，試圖替這百年來受壓抑的傳統女性發聲。拋開書寫客觀與否的爭論，試著以開放之心來談學術跨領域。放諸天下，人人身上都可以是個微觀歷史。

關鍵字

傳統女性理想美 ； 身體觀轉變 ； 健（康）美 ； 女性形體美

並列摘要

From 1861~1960, the traditional ideal of female beauty in Taiwan underwent many drastic changes, particularly when compared to its relative consistency over thousands of years. Female aesthetics has swung amongst the factors of traditional/modern, Eastern/Western, Chinese/Japanese, as well as image/physical beauty. Aesthetics is an expressive form of art that is certainly not formed by chance - it is always linked with the needs of a society and changes along with its pulse.
Over the course of that century, whether the discussion was about the female body or fashion in Taiwan, it can be said that ideal female beauty has been a continuous pursuit of curves. Under the traditional Confucian system, the female body was held under the strict, patriarchal standards of the three “obediences” (a woman must obey her father before marriage, her husband when married, and her sons in widowhood) and four virtues (morality, proper speech, modest manner and diligent work). Therefore, when the Western standard of beauty for all things, the concept of “aesthetic measure,” was imported, local female aesthetics began to place an emphasis on proportions in physical beauty. Seen as a self-extension of clothing, as well as a breakaway from the many standards for traditional wardrobe colors, practicality and the expression of body dynamics began to take a priority. These changes in body concepts and the emphasis on female curves comprise the second major focus of this study.
Over that century, female aesthetics in Taiwan were profoundly influenced by cultural experiences and eras of time. It cannot be denied that impulses of Westernization have had the greatest effect. And, amongst this, the Japanese Colonial Period (1915~1935) marked a major turning point. Standards to female aesthetics have always been in the eyes of the beholders and characteristics that change with the times. There are few written records in regards to this subject from the early immigrant community of Taiwan. With that said, the author supports her study with some visual data (such as photographs, paintings, postcards, advertisements) in an attempt to give a voice to women, one which has been suppressed over hundreds of years of tradition. Putting aside objective and non-objective debates, this study attempts to discuss an interdisciplinary field of academics with an open mind. Throughout the entire world, people’s bodies can be records of a micro-history.

並列關鍵字

Traditional female beauty ； changes in body concepts ； healthy beauty ； beauty of the female body

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