上茄苳的辦桌文化

The banquets(pān-toh) culture in Shangjiadong

賴盈秀(Ying-Shiou Lai)

指導教授 ： 林承緯

國立臺北藝術大學/文化資源學院學術論文/建築與文化資產研究所/碩士(2014年)

https://doi.org/10.6835/TNUA.2014.00046

摘要

上茄苳庄位在臺南東北端，擁有多達十餘位以包辦筵席為業的辦桌師傅，因而具有「廚子庄（too-tsi tsng）」之稱。本論以「上茄苳的辦桌文化」作為主題，搜索文獻資料，由民俗學的觀點展開田野參與觀察及參與訪談，經分析和比較歸納，闡述上茄苳辦桌產業的發展與演變、辦桌師傅的傳承及上茄苳辦桌文化的現況。

上茄苳辦桌業的濫觴，可追溯到百年前一位名為殷玉鑒的辦桌師傅，日後，此業便由其子孫、親屬代代相傳、開枝散葉，造就出今日傳承於上茄苳的辦桌產業。辦桌師傅的師承關係及工作內容，與當地社會、當地信仰之間有所連結，上茄苳因缺乏餐館而習於辦桌聚餐，人情因素成為聘用辦桌師傅的依據，辦桌師傅因縱貫公路的便捷而時常與外地交流，而女性在辦桌的傳承中則不被重視。今日辦桌的桌次因不同名目而各有增減，原本的廟會、嫁娶相關者減少，但初二、聚餐相關的桌次則逐年增加。今日辦桌師傅少有傳承下一代，對於下一代的習藝採開放的心態，不限於父傳子，鑒師的影響力也逐漸減低，辦桌師傅各自發展出新的優勢。

本研究最終呈現上茄苳的辦桌文化的發展脈絡與其獨特習俗，深入辦桌師傅和上茄苳人的日常生活、信仰慣習間的互動，探究上茄苳獨有的飲食文化。

關鍵字

上茄苳 ； 辦桌 ； 飲食文化 ； 後壁 ； 辦桌師傅（too-tsi）

並列摘要

Shangjiadong village located at the Northeast of Tainan. There are more than ten traditional banquets chefs here, and be called “The village of the chefs”. The research topic of thesis is “The banquets (pān-toh) culture in Shangjiadong”. This study searched the literature, used participant observation and depth interview method by the view of folklore. Then analyzed, compared and inducted, to show the history changes of the banquets industries in Shangjiadong, the inheritance of the chefs, and the current situation of the banquets culture in Shangjiadong.

The origin of the banquets culture in Shangjiadong can be traced to a chef named “Yin, Yu-Jian” in one hundred years ago. The industry inherited by his posterity and his apprentice, created the industry in Shangjiadong now. The inheritance of the chefs and the work connect with the local society and the religion. Because the lack of the restaurant, people here get used to dine together by traditional banquets. The friendship is the reason to choose the chef. Because of the No. 1 Provincial Road, the chefs usually connect with others. And the women are overlook in the inheritance of the chefs. Today, the quantity of the banquet changes by different items. Banquet for ceremonies and weddings are decreasing, but banquet for just dinning together are increasing year by year. Today, the chefs seldom passed on their sons and daughters. Their sons can learn the skill by any ways not just from their fathers. Yin, Yu-Jian’s influence is not so obvious as the past, and the chefs cook by their own advantage.

The research will display the history and the peculiar custom of the banquets culture in Shangjiadong. To inquire the interaction between the chefs and other people, and the peculiar food culture in Shangjiadong.

並列關鍵字

Shangjiadong, banquets (pān-toh) ； food culture ； Houbi ； banquet chef（too-tsi）

參考文獻

1995　〈考古所見中國古代廚師形象略說〉《第四屆中國飲食文化學術研討會論文集》頁123-163。

2012　《台灣歷史圖說（增訂本）》。臺北：聯經出版公司。

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教教育部重編國語辭典修訂本

2007　〈臺南府城廟宇普度祭品的文化意涵〉《中國飲食文化》第三輯，頁85-87。