辛蒂．雪曼的另類時尚攝影—以《尤根．特勒, 辛蒂．雪曼, 馬克．雅各布斯》為例

The Alternative Fashion Photography of Cindy Sherman —In Case of《Juergen Teller , Cindy Sherman, Marc Jacobs》

黃筱茹(Shiao -Ju, Huang)

指導教授 ： 黃建宏

共同指導教授 ： 賴瑞鎣

國立臺北藝術大學/美術學院學術論文/美術學系碩士班美術史組/碩士(2014年)

摘要

辛蒂．雪曼在2004年首次和外界團隊合作，與攝影師尤根．特勒為時尚品牌馬克．雅各布斯拍攝廣告，時尚不僅是雪曼不斷質問的對象，也是激生其怪誕/詭態藝術的基因。有趣的是，雪曼在此一反嘲笑時尚之常，和時尚一起作笑，顯示藝術家對幽默概念的深刻體認及諧擬策略的再評估。本文試圖從此合作切入，考察快照與時尚的關係緣起。隨著攝影藝術對真實的探問衍生而出的私密攝影刺激、顛覆了時尚攝影；並且形成某種另類時尚攝影之風格意象。本文首先檢視此另類時尚攝影錯綜複雜的發展過程，比較、分析雪曼與特勒的異同，勾勒快照、電影停格與動態影像之間的交匯，探討在什麼樣的脈絡底下使創作方式風格截然不同的兩人連結，揭示此次合作的突破與創新；並進一步討論雪曼的藝術實踐與特勒的瞬間快照如何促使影像生成時間、創造敘事與新的身體感性，以及此創生而出的異類影像所潛藏的意義與可能，同時反映當代藝術發展的交混現象。

關鍵字

尤根．特勒、時尚攝影、快照、私密攝影、時間、身體

並列摘要

Abstract
In 2004, Cindy Sherman worked with Juergen Teller on an advertisement project for Marc Jacobs. This cooperation was the first time that she created images with another photographer. Fashion is not only the topic that Sherman tries to critic but also the trigger which stimulates Sherman’s grotesque aesthetic. What interesting is that, Sherman now seem to not laugh at fashion anymore; instead she laugh with fashion which reveal the artist’s awareness of the concept of humor and began to re-evaluate the strategy of parody. This paper tries to focus on this cross-field cooperation, to explore the relationship between snapshot and fashion, observes the intricate course of development of the alternative fashion photography. Coming along with art photography’s questioning about real and representation, snapshot and intimate photography subvert the conventions of fashion photography and became the imagery of alternative fashion photography in result. This paper investigates similarities and differences of the photography between Sherman and Teller, sketches the intersection between snapshot, film still, and image- movement. At the end, this paper intends to explore the meaning of the image, which is the combination of Sherman’s art practices and Teller’s instant snapshot, to discuss the image in terms of time, narrative, and the new sensibility of body, as well as the potential significance of the distinctive image.

並列關鍵字

Juergen Teller、 fashion photography、 snapshot、 intimate photography、time、body、

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