真亦假時假亦真：談台灣名牌精品與仿冒品消費的人類學反思

At the Border of Real and Unreal: An Anthropological Reflection on the Consumption of Luxury Brands and Their Counterfeits in Taiwan

蕭清華(Ching-Hua Hsiao)

指導教授 ： 黃倩玉

國立清華大學/人文社會學院/人類學研究所/碩士(2006年)

https://doi.org/10.6843/NTHU.2006.00650

摘要

本論文旨在探討台灣名牌精品與仿冒品消費與使用中產生的社會意義，以及兩者之間的曖昧關係。名牌精品消費在台灣逐漸由奢侈品的消費到日常生活的消費，而仿冒品則是台灣在地消費中的特殊現象，本論文研究發現，不論是名牌精品與仿冒品，透過不同的購買與使用的方式，從物的物質性來討論，兩者皆與人產生社會關係，而仿冒品特殊的地方，就在於它能夠在不被發現的情況下，假裝擁有名牌價值，但是它永遠無法擁有真正的名牌價值；同時名牌精品與仿冒品消費則透過混雜的使用脈絡，產生真實性的曖昧關係。
在研究方法上，筆者利用深入訪談與深入觀察的方法，透過對於購買、販賣以及使用名牌精品與仿冒品的消費者與販售者做調查，以及深入走訪各個販售地點，販賣地點的不同也影響到真假判別的曖昧性。
筆者利用人類學對於消費研究的理論出發，關注的是人與物的關係，以及人在使用物中產生的能動性如何影響物的社會意義。透過對「名牌價值」的討論，筆者發現價值的產生與所承載的意義，必須要經過實際的消費實踐才能完成，而在實際使用的過程當中，發現仿冒品就算仿的像，也只能假裝擁有名牌價值，是否保有名牌價值，以及在保有之後，從儀式過程中產生的社會價值，都體現在名牌精品與仿冒品的實際使用上。不論是使用名牌精品或是仿冒品，兩者經由混雜的使用脈絡，也產生真實性的曖昧關係，在混雜的過程中，難辨真假，只能從使用脈絡上窺視、探索，雖然真假難辨，但是產生出的真的社會意義與社會關係卻不變。
另外，對名牌知識的探索與了解，也影響到使用者使用的情形。不論是名牌精品或是仿冒品使用者，只要懂得「用以適當消費商品的知識」，便可在購買與使用時，擁有名牌價值與展現的社會價值。而透過文化資本與經濟資本的競逐，則可發現在文化資本上，名牌精品與仿冒品使用者都有吸收名牌知識，只是在經濟資本上的差異而選擇不同的消費方式。
最後提到從哈日到哈歐的過程中，全球精品與在地仿冒，並非二元對立，而是混雜的過程，從消費空間的混雜，到真假難辨的仿冒品，名牌精品與仿冒品之間雖然在空間上與體系上距離遙遠，而仿冒品卻透過仿的越來越像，試圖靠近、打破與真品的距離，但是對仿冒品的真實性來說，仿冒品永遠是假的，無法擁有真品所有的原創性與靈光。

關鍵字

消費文化 ； 商品價值 ； 物質性 ； 商品知識 ； 全球化與在地化

並列摘要

This thesis focus on the social relationship between consuming and using luxury brands and counterfeits, and the ambiguity between these two things. The consumption of luxury brands is gradually from luxuries to daily life consumption, and the consumption of counterfeits is a specific phenomenon in local Taiwan. This thesis found that both two things produce social relationship through different consuming and using. The special of the counterfeits is that counterfeits can pretend to have the luxury brand value if they are not found to be fake, but they do not have the real luxury brand value actually. At the same time, through the hybrid nature of use contexts, the luxury brands and the counterfeits produce the ambiguity of authenticity.
In the consumption market in Taiwan, the consumption of luxury brands is gradually from luxuries to daily life consumption, and the consumption of counterfeits is a specific phenomenon in local Taiwan. From my trip to mainland China in 2004, I found that consuming luxury brand counterfeits is an important consumer behavior both in China and Taiwan. Therefore, according to these discoveries, I discuss how these two things produce social meanings after the consumers use them.
As for the research methods, I utilize the methods of deep interview and deep observation. I interview the consumers who use luxury brands and counterfeits and counterfeit sellers, and I find different vending places lead to the ambiguity between luxury brands and counterfeits.
In this thesis, I make use of anthropological theories of consumption, which emphasize the relationship between people and things, as well as the social meanings influenced by the agency that people express when using things. Through the discussion of “luxury brand value”, I discover that the practice of consumption produces the social value and its meaning. From my own experiences of consumption, I discover that the counterfeits which imitate real luxury brands really can only “pretend” to have the luxury brand value. Whether the counterfeits can reserve the luxury brand value, as well as how the social value produced appear to us, are embodied in the use of luxury brands and counterfeits. No matter what is used—luxury brands or counterfeits—both will produce the ambiguity of authenticity as a result of the hybrid nature of use contexts.
By the way, I argue that the understanding and discovery of luxury brand knowledge will influence the use itself. The users, using luxury brands or counterfeits, can acquire the luxury brand value and social value embodied in buying and using as long as they know how to consume the commodities suitably. At the same time, through my investigation of the competition between cultural capital and economic capital, I found that as regards cultural capital, both kinds of users acquire luxury brand knowledge, but they make different choices because of their differences in economic capital.
In the last part of this thesis, I contend that global luxury brands are not the opposite to local counterfeits. Instead, what’s involved is a hybrid process. What we experience, from hybrid consuming places to almost real counterfeits, bear witness to the fact that although luxury brands are distant from counterfeits geographically, the latter is trying to shortening this distance by getting more “real.” When it comes to the authenticity of counterfeits, however, they always remain unreal without having the originality and aura of real ones.

並列關鍵字

consumer culture ； commodity value ； materality ； the knowledge of commodity ； globalization and localization

參考文獻

2003 假名牌、假理論、假全球化。台灣社會研究季刊54:219-252。

Nueno, Jose Luis and John A. Quelch

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Appadurai, Arjun

1986 Introduction: Commodities and the Politics of Value. In The Social Life of Things: Commodities in Cultural Perspective. Arjun Appadurai ed. Pp.3-63. Cambridge, London, New York, New Rochelle, Melbourne, Sydney: Cambridge University Press.