探討節慶飲食之真實性—以白河居民對蓮飲食之認知為例

The Authenticity of Festival Cuisine – A Case Study of the Baihe Residents’Perspective to Lotus Food

黃萱榕(Hsuan-Jung Huang)

指導教授 ： 林玥秀

國立高雄餐旅大學/廚藝學院/台灣飲食文化產業研究所/碩士(2012年)

https://doi.org/10.6825/NKUHT.2012.00012

摘要

隨著美食觀光的發展，食物構成了人們旅遊時的重要動機之一。地方具有特色的食物不僅成為該旅遊目的地特殊的意象，為遊客體驗加值，更代表地方重要核心，在觀光發展過程中扮演著重要且不可或缺的角色，與地方產業更是緊密連結。1996年文建會提出「文化產業化、產業化文化」的構想，「白河蓮花節」的產生可說是此策略下具體呈現的「產物」。然而美食觀光讓地方食物成為一種展演的文化要素，居民對蓮產作物之飲食傳統與其道地真實性受到考驗，2001年「一縣市一特色、一鄉一特產」的政策，使得各地方產業節慶活動紛紛崛起、各地對美食元素的倣效、及採用外來廉價非當地食材對商譽的破壞，讓白河蓮花節面臨觀光發展的瓶頸。因此探討食物的傳統與道地對延續地方食物節慶活動的真實性，或許有其在實務上的價值與意涵。
本研究以台南縣白河鎮在地居民為主體，回顧白河地區的歷史發展，以了解在何種得天獨厚的環境之下，白河成為台灣蓮產首屈一指之地。此外透過真實性理論的探討，運用立意抽樣之方式選取研究對象，以白河地區14位居民進行訪談，包含產業利益相關者、非產業利益相關者以及地方政府相關者等。分別以地方新節慶飲食、地方的飲食智慧、地方食物的象徵與獨特性等，以描繪地方居民對於蓮產作物，其飲食使用態度與認知所呈現的「真實性」，並且以故事性的敘述刻劃出地方食物於創造、延續飲食習性的相關性。藉由文獻蒐集與訪談，瞭解節慶活動背景之下的飲食符碼鑲嵌。研究結果發現透過消費與產品(菜餚)的轉變所累積的飲食經驗，讓居民認知中的傳統、真實與虛構是經由雙向迴路的影響與轉換所產生的飲食行為。地方飲食舞台化之前台的建構可透過專業廚藝人員的匯集、食材來源在地性的確保、地方食物故事性的行銷以及產地探索的體驗等四面向，以展現「重新創造，全新意象」的真實性情境，藉由產地到餐桌，呈現情感至味覺的體驗。食物與地方的情感因素更是支撐白河地方走過節慶興衰，卻能保有一定真實與傳統的主要原因。若能將內化的情感化為外顯的牽動，傳統與真實根深蒂固的留在居民心中，創造彼此深厚的羈絆，進而加強自我與地方產業的連結，帶動地方自給自足式的永續發展，創造地方文化與產業不可取代的獨特與價值。
關鍵字:節慶飲食、舞台化真實性、地方食物

關鍵字

節慶飲食 ； 舞台化真實性 ； 地方食物

並列摘要

As gastro-tourism continues to flourish, food has become one of the major reasons people travel. Local specialty food not only becomes a monument of the travel destination, which adds value to the tourist experience, but it also represents the region. The food becomes an inevitable role in tourism development, while maintaining a close tie with local industry. In 1996, Council for Cultural Affairs promoted the concept of “Cultural Industrialization and Industrialized Culture”, and “Baihe Lotus Carnival” became the “brainchild” of such policy. However, gastro-tourism often turns local food into a cultural performance, and the degree of tradition and genuineness of the residents’ lotus crops would be put to test. Since 2001, many local festivals began to emerge, following the government’s policy of “One Town One Product”. As a result, each city started to copy the recipes of local cuisines, and use inferior ingredients that were not obtained from the region, disdaining the reputation of the real local food. This has put the tourism development of Baihe Lotus Carnival to a halt. In light of this, for practical reasons, the connection between traditional local food and sustaining local festivals must be investigated.
This study mainly focuses on the residents at Baihe Township, Tainan County, and reviews the history in Baihe, understanding what kind of environment it boasts in becoming the number one place that produces lotus in Taiwan. In this study, authenticity theory was discussed and purposive sampling was used in enrolling subjects. Fourteen residents of Baihe area who were and were not related to industrial interest and who were related to the government were interviewed. New local festival diet, local diet wisdom, symbol of local foods and uniqueness were adopted to respectively describe the authenticity represented by the residents against the lotus products, diet attitude and cognition. A narrative was applied to elucidate the correlation among creation of diet and passing on of the diet custom. Through literature collection and interview, the embedded code of diet was figured out. The research result shows that the diet experience accumulated due to change of consumption and products (cuisine) allowed the tradition, reality, and fiction in residents’ cognition became diet behaviors formed by the effect and transformation through a two-way loop. The front stage of the local diet staged can be constructed with four aspects such as gather of professional chefs, assurance of localization of food material, marketing of narrative of local food, and appreciation of exploration of product origin to represent the authenticity context as “Re-creation, New Imagine”, in order to reveal the experience from emotion to taste sense. The emotional factor of the food and the area is the major reason which ensured Baihe area maintaining certain extent of reality and tradition, in the process of rise and decline of the festival. If the internalization of emotion can be transformed into externally explicit linkage, the tradition and reality can be deeply rooted in mind of the residents, and profound fetter between each other can be created, the linkage between self and the area can be strengthened, sustainable development in a manner of autarky can be driven, and the irreplaceable uniqueness and value of the local culture and the industry can be created.

並列關鍵字

Festival Cuisine ； Staged Authenticity ； Local Food

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