客家米食文化在銅鑼傳統飲食中的傳承

The Inheritance of Rice Culture on Hakka Traditional foods in Tongluo

劉澤玲(Liu,Tse-Ling)

指導教授 ： 李怡君

國立高雄餐旅大學/餐旅學院/台灣飲食文化產業研究所/碩士(2010年)

https://doi.org/10.6825/NKUHT.2010.00021

摘要

本研究以傳統米食作為家人互動之串聯，以Halbawachs集體記憶為理論核心，透過喚回參與研究者個別之舊時記憶，將過去的情節性記憶進行解碼提存，整理出屬於家庭私領域的米食記憶與當地社群之集體記憶，呈現家庭私領域中互動與米食之精神意涵。本研究採用質性研究，透過深度訪談、參與觀察、焦點團體與非正式訪談等資料收集方法，搜集當地居民與米食相關聯之互動、米食經營業者之經營理念，以及前述兩者對客家意象之看法。
研究將參與米食製作過程之角色分類為監督者（婆婆）、執行者（妯娌、媳婦）與協助者（青少年或男性），男性角色並非如過往著述所言，隱身於灶房互動內，而是因為當賦予的性別角色改變後，逐漸遠離灶房，但仍會在需要協助時現身。家庭成員口味偏好影響米食製作的種類與數量，米食有固定的製作材料與方法，表現出固定的「氣味原則」，各家庭間用料比例有所差異，以此形塑出各異之家庭口味偏好。對於進入家庭的商業米食，監督者或執行者起先會有所顧慮，但當通過認可後，即可能透過商業購買取代親身製作。
米食業者有強烈成就動機支持發展，擇善固執的「硬頸」精神讓業者注重品質，行銷策略首重口碑行銷，透過通路合作跨越鄉鎮疆域。業者除了調整配方因應米食保存期限短，亦藉擴充產品線填補，讓顧客購買伴手禮時有其他替代選擇。參與研究之銅鑼居民、業者與媒體認定傳統飲食經營可傳遞客家文化，現今媒體將客家飲食歸類於休閒旅遊版面，並對客家飲食大力讚揚，喚回原本即喜好米食之客籍人士之記憶，內外呼應下，有助於客庄文化的媒體行銷外，也鞏固米食在客家傳統飲食中地位。

關鍵字

質性研究 ； 集體記憶 ； 飲食文化 ； 客家米食

並列摘要

This study discusses how traditional Hakka rice serve as a connection of family interaction. Using collective memory from Halbawachs as theoretical framework, which evokes participants’ memories, decodes episodic memories, and organizes familiar memories of rice and communal memories, this study represents the spiritual meaning of familiar interaction and rice. This study, employed a qualitative research approach. Through in-depth interviews, participant observation, focus group and informal interviews, this study documents the interaction of local residents and Hakka rice, the business ideals of Hakka rice industries, and the perspectives of Hakka images from residents and business owners.
Based on rice preparing processes that individuals perform, the researcher categorizes them into the role of supervisor (mothers-in-law), executer (sisters-in-law or daughters-in-law), and helper (adolescents or male family members). However, contrary to the previous studies, men are not invisible in the process of meal preparation. Although the dominant gender role that distances them from the kitchen, they still assist female family members when needed. Taste preference of family members shapes the selection and amount of Hakka rice, which is embodied in the permanent “flavor principles.” Since there are flavor divergences among families, each family has its own distinctive flavor. Supervisors or executors may harbor ambivalent feelings towards commercial rice products at first, but they could still purchase these Hakka rice once they approve them.
Business owner of Hakka rice have strong motivations to support the development of Hakka rice industry; their “stiff neck” spirits also motivate them to emphasize on quality. The most important marketing strategy is word of mouth. Besides adjust ingredients to elongate preservation, business owners also expand product lines, and through cross-channel cooperation, proliferating clients alterative choices. Respondents from Tong luo, business owners, and the media believe that traditional food could promote Hakka culture. Nowadays the media recommends Hakka food culture in travel magazines and awakens Hakka people’s rice memories, which not only helps the marketing of Hakka culture, but also strengthens the position of rice in Hakka culture.

並列關鍵字

Qualitative research ； Collective memory ； Food Culture ； Hakka rice

參考文獻

王明珂（2000）。食物、身體、與族群邊界。載於中華飲食文化基金會主編，第六屆中國飲食文化學術研討會論文集，（47-67頁）。台北市：中華飲食文化基金會。

楊彥杰（2000）。客家菜與客家飲食文化。載於中華飲食文化基金會主編，第六屆中華飲食文化學術研討會論文集（363-381頁）。台北市：中華飲食文化基金會。

許木柱與簡美玲（1996）。飲食與文化－人類學觀點的回顧與展望。載於中華飲食文化基金會主編，第四屆中華飲食文化學術研討會論文集（65-82頁）。台北市：中華飲食文化基金會。

簡榮聰（2006）。台灣古早的製食與貯食器具。中華飲食文化基金會會訊，12（1），37-45。

張玉欣（2003）。桃園、苗栗飲食文化初探。中國飲食文化基金會會訊，9（2），31-37。