海口人的灶腳─以旗津地區飲食為例

Coastal Residents and Their Kitchen –the Food Culture of Cijin

黃衣緯(Yi-Wei Huang)

指導教授 ： 潘江東

國立高雄餐旅大學/廚藝學院/台灣飲食文化產業研究所/碩士(2011年)

https://doi.org/10.6825/NKUHT.2011.00048

摘要

歷史根源和社會發展，與一個地區或民族的飲食習俗形成，有著極為密切的關係。旗津於日治時期旅館、餐飲蓬勃發展，亦是特種營業場所的集中地，爾後國民政府來台，大陸各省籍人士移居旗津，帶入不同飲食習俗。隨著第二港口的開闢，阻斷本區對外陸上交通，影響物資運送進出，而過港隧道的興建，再次觸發旗津觀光、美食發展，使得生活環境與日常飲食也隨之改變。本研究選取文獻回顧、參與觀察與深度訪談，以重大歷史事件作為分期依據，討論旗津地區各時期飲食文化發展與變遷。
研究發現：受到歷史時期發展影響，生活在旗津地區的居民，雖同住在一個區域，日常飲食卻展現出不同的價值取向，依族群、飲食內容與特性，可區分成三種飲食方式。
一. 祖籍為安徽、江蘇的居民。主食米、麵參半；飲食以肉類、河鮮為主；喜吃麵食、小吃類，如小籠包、餃子等。
二. 大陳義胞。大陳居民本身來自島嶼地形，與臺灣周遭環境極為相似，吃食上比較沒有差異。飲食比例以肉類、魚鮮參半；菜餚製作工序繁複，多重調味滋味豐富。
三. 澎湖人與在地居民。澎湖與旗津經過長時間的融合，在飲食習慣上有幾個共同特點：三餐少肉、偏愛魚鮮；口味偏清淡、鹹鮮；烹調方式採煎、煮為主；沒有過多的調味，講求食材新鮮度，追求簡單、純粹的原味。

關鍵字

海口人 ； 灶腳 ； 旗津地區 ； 飲食

並列摘要

A region or people’s dietary habits is closely related to their history and social development. During Japanese rule, hotels, restaurants, even special types of industry were centered in Cijin. Later, as Nationalist government came to Taiwan, Mainlanders settled down here and brought with them their dietary habits. With the establishment of the second harbor, supplies and inland transportation were cut off. However, the construction of the harbor tunnel once again triggered tourism and gourmet development in Cijin, changing people’s living environment and daily meals. This study adopts literature review, participant observation, and in-depth interview, discussing the development and changes of Cijin’s food culture in different periods of time, using historical events as a point of reference.
As a result, residents in Cijin were influenced by the way history unfolds. Even though they lived in the same area, different values were developed. According to their ethnicity, what they eat, and different characteristics, their dietary habits could be divided into three groups.
一. Rice and noodles are staples for residents of Anhui and Jiangsu origin. They include meat and freshwater fishes in their diet. They favor noodles and snacks, such as steamed buns and dumplings.
二. Descendents from Dachen Islands. These people came from islands – an area of habitat very similar to Taiwan and so is their food culture. Half of their diet is composed of meat, and another half, fish and seafood. Their dishes require complicated recipes with rich flavor and seasonings.
三. Locals and Penghu residents. After long-term integration between Penghu and Cijin, they share a couple characteristics in dietary habits: meals with less meat, more fish and seafood; lightly-seasoned but salty seafood; prefer sautéing and boiling their food; they seek fresh ingredients and a simple, pure flavor without using rich sauces.

並列關鍵字

coastal residents ； kitchen ； Cijin area ； diet

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