以虱目魚皮及海帶提取物製作護膚保養品之研究

Studies on the preparation of skin care products with extracts from milkfish skin and kelp

邱顯燿(Shan-Iou Chiu)

指導教授 ： 蕭明謙

崑山科技大學/工程學院/環境工程研究所/碩士(2011年)

摘要

虱目魚養殖為南臺灣水產養殖的特色，從虱目魚皮中提取高價值的膠原蛋白，可以降低使用牛豬來源之膠原蛋白感染牛海綿狀腦病(BSE)、傳染性海綿狀腦病(TSE)、口蹄疫(FMD)及豬鏈球菌等動物性傳染病之危險性，並可達到減廢再利用之環保功能及促進漁業經濟之快速發展。
虱目魚皮雜蛋白（非膠原蛋白）的去除，以7.5％NaCl溶液處理24h最為合適。從虱目魚皮中提取酸溶性膠原蛋白（FASC）和酶溶性膠原蛋白（FPSC）的得率分別為45.8％和90.6％(以乾基計)，PSC比ASC之得率高出44.8％；虱目魚皮粗提取液經一次鹽析、透析，即可達到純化目的。羥脯氨酸和虱目魚皮膠原蛋白換算係數為12.4±0.02。虱目魚皮膠原蛋白製品色澤潔白，無酸味，略有輕微魚腥味。FASC、FPSC和豬皮酶溶性膠原蛋白(PPSC)，三種樣品在R.H.43％的條件下之吸濕性較R.H.81％低。在R.H.43％的條件下，樣品在60h達到最高吸濕性（17~20％）；在R.H.81％的條件下，三種樣品在48h達到最高吸濕性（20％）；因此三種膠原蛋白樣品吸濕性相似，且都有很好的吸濕率。三種膠原蛋白樣品的保濕性亦相似，且都有很好的保濕率，在36h的保濕率仍能維持在40％左右。三種膠原蛋白樣品隨著濃度的增加，其乳化性和乳化穩定性也相應增加，當濃度達0.5％時，其乳化度達50％左右，乳化穩定度達55％左右。當溶液濃度在0.1％∼0.3％之間時，乳化性和乳化穩定性上升的較快，而當濃度在0.4％∼0.5％時乳化性和乳化穩定性增長趨勢較緩。三種膠原蛋白樣品中，由於其純度都很高，因此都有很好的乳化性和乳化穩定性。
台灣海帶的資源非常豐富，從海帶中提取出之褐藻糖膠具有強抗氧化性、高溫穩定性及吸濕保濕性，添加在面膜、護膚乳液及護膚油膏中可當做抗氧化劑及吸濕保濕劑。海帶褐藻糖膠之酸化熱水提取最佳條件為提取時間為6h，提取溫度為95℃，提取液固比為90 mL/g，提取pH為2。 海帶褐藻糖膠之脫色，以A12O3較適宜，其脫色效果雖比雙氧水稍差一些，但褐藻糖膠的損失較少。以活性炭為脫色劑，其脫色效果及褐藻糖膠得率均是最低。海帶褐藻糖膠之抗氧化性及保濕性隨褐藻糖膠之純度之增加而增高。海帶中之褐藻酸鈉含有大量(-COONa),(-OH)類活性基團，以0.1％褐藻糖膠、1％褐藻酸鈉和0.1％氯化鈣溶液，以Arlacel83為分散劑，在均質機交鏈下，可製成微膠囊的外膜，內可包覆精油，具有控制釋放之功能。將所製得之微膠囊置放在面膜、乳液中可增加其速效性。
不添加褐藻糖膠、膠原蛋白及乳酸之「免洗面膜」基膜的平均吸水率為1.45％，加入褐藻糖膠及膠原蛋白之「免洗面膜」基膜的平均吸水率為11.22％，吸水率提高了將近9％（提高了將近7.7倍）以上，其保濕性主要是由膠原蛋白及褐藻糖膠所引起；「免洗面膜」基膜中戊二醛的添加量為3mL時，其成膜性較好。加入褐藻糖膠及膠原蛋白之「免洗面膜」基膜，再添加保濕劑乳酸，可使得吸水率由平均吸水率11.22％，提高到28.29％（提高將近19.51倍）以上，保濕劑乳酸之添加量以2mL為佳，兼具有較佳之成膜性及保濕性能。因「免洗面膜」基膜之交聯劑使用有毒性之戊二醛，乃改以無毒性之交聯劑褐藻酸鈉取代戊二醛以製成「環保面膜」，所製成的「環保面膜」基膜具有更好的成膜性、及保濕性。
將本研究所提取之褐藻糖膠、褐藻酸鈉及魚皮膠原蛋白進一步製備成「抗氧化保濕面膜」、「抗氧化保濕乳液及油膏」及「環保面膜」，均具有良好的效果。

關鍵字

環保面膜 ； 膠原蛋白 ； 褐藻糖膠 ； 抗紫外線 ； 抗氧化

並列摘要

Milkfish aquaculture is one of the characteristics of southern Taiwan aquaculture. The extraction of high-value collagen from milkfish skin can reduce the dangerosity of being infected bovine spongiform encephalopathy (BSE), transmissible spongiform encephalopathies (TSEs) ,foot-and-mouth disease (FMD) and streptococcus suis, for using collagen extracted from bovine and pigs; it also can achieve the eco-friendly function for waste reduction and recycling and promote rapid development of fisheries Economics.
The most appropriate treatment to remove hybrid protein (non-collagen protein) was 7.5% NaCl solution for 24hours. The yield of acid-soluble collagen (ASC) and enzyme-soluble collagen (PSC) extracted from milkfish skin was 45.8% and 90.6% (dry basis) respectively. The yield of PSC was higher than ASC about 44.8%.
The crude collagen extracted from milkfish skin can achieve the purpose of purification by a salting out and dialysis,. The color of collagen products extracted from milkfish skin is white , non-sour, and slightly fishy. The moisture absorption for three kinds of collagen samples in conditions of R.H.43 % was lower than the R.H.81.%.
The moisture absorption rate for three kinds of collagen samples in condition of R.H.43 % can reach the highest moisture (17 ~ 20%) in 60 hour.and in condition of R.H.81 % can reach the highest moisture (20%) in 60 hour.
Therefore, the moisture absorption rate for three kinds of collagen samples is similar and good..The moisture retention rate for three kinds of collagen samples is also similar and good, it can maintain about 40 % in the 36 hour. the Emulsification rate and emulsion stability rate for three kinds of collagen samples were increasing with the increase of concentration. When the concentration of collagen trend to 0.5 %, the Emulsification rate trend to 50 % and the emulsion stability rate trend to 55 %. When the concentration of collagen between 0.1 % ~ 0.3 % the emulsification rate and emulsion stability rate increase rapidly, and when the concentration of collagen between 0.4 % ~ 0.5 % the emulsification rate and emulsion stability rate is slow growth. Because the purity of three kinds collagen samples, is very high so that they all have very good Emulsification rate and emulsion stability rate.
The resources of kelp are very rich in Taiwan, the fucoidan extracted from the kelp has strong anti-oxidation, high temperature stability and hygroscopic moisture, so that fucoidan added in the mask, skin care lotions and skin care ointment can be used as anti-oxidants and moisture absorption agent. The optimum conditions of acidification and hot water method for extracting fucoidan from kelp were as fallows: the optimal time was 6 hours, the optimal temperature was 95 ℃, the optimal water addition was 90 ml per gram of kelp powder and the optimal pH value was 2. The A12O3 is more appropriate as the bleaching method of fucoidan. The bleaching effect of A12O3 was slightly less than hydrogen peroxide, but the loss of fucoidan of A12O3 was less than hydrogen peroxide. The bleaching agent of activated carbon has the lowest bleaching effect and the yield of fucoidan. The antioxidant capacity and hygroscopic moisture retention of fucoidan are increasing with increased purity. The sodium alginate extracted from kelp contains large amounts of ative groups (-COONa, -OH). With 0.1% fucoidan, 1% sodium alginate , 0.1% calcium chloride solution and dispersant Arlacel83 to being crosslinked in the Homogenizer can make the outer membrane of microcapsules. When the outer membrane of microcapsuleswas coated in oil, it has the control and release function. placing the microcapsules in the mask, lotion can increase its quick effect.
No adding fucoidan, collagen, and lactic acid of "Disposable mask base film", the average water absorption was 1.45%. Adding fucoidan and collagen of " disposable mask base film", the average water absorption was 11.22%, water absorption increased nearly 9% (approximately 7.7 times). The increase of water absorption was mainly by collagen and fucoidan. When the adding of glutaraldehyde is 3ml, the base film is better. Adding the moisturizing agent of lactic acid, cane make the average water absorption increasing from 11.22% to 28.29 % , water absorption increased nearly 17.07% (approximately 19.51 times). When the adding of lactic acid is 2ml, the "disposable mask base film" has better film-forming and moisturizing properties. Due to the glutaraldehyde in the formula of " disposable mask base film" is toxic ,therefore replace the glutaraldehyde by sodium alginate to make "green mask base film". the "green mask base film"has better film forming and hygroscopic moisture retention.
With the extracts of the fucoidan, sodium alginate and milkfish skin collagen, then to making the "anti-oxidant moisture mask", "antioxidant moisturizer lotion and ointment" and " green mask base film ", all come true and have good results.

並列關鍵字

GreenMask ； Collagen ； Fucoidan ； Anti-UV ； Antioxidant

參考文獻

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