從《良友畫報》看近代中國女性服飾變化

A Study of the Change in Women''s Dresses and Accessories in Modern China ─ Based on the Contents of The Companion Pictorial

王之瑜(Chih-Yu Wang)

指導教授 ： 王成勉

國立中央大學/文學院/歷史研究所/碩士(2008年)

摘要

從《良友畫報》看近代中國女性服飾變化

摘 要

本論文係透過《良友畫報》中所展現的女性服飾，來再現二十世紀二、三０年代的中國女性。《良友畫報》發刊於1926至1945年，為二十世紀前半葉中國相當具有代表性的刊物，內容包羅萬象，擁有眾多讀者，反映出社會大眾普遍的價值觀。

《良友畫報》擁有相當豐富的圖像視覺資料，其中的封面女郎和內頁所刊載形形色色、各行各業的女性，提供中國婦女一個展示服飾的場域，呈現出粲然多樣的服裝類別。而服飾除了具體可見的形式外觀，同時也被賦予許多抽象的意義與功能，標誌著個體的意志與品味，也表示對所屬群體的價值認同。故服飾同時具有實用功能與文化功能。

本文主要分三部份來論述。第一部份討論《良友畫報》的特色與內容。該畫報不專以女性訴求，但在文字與圖像的選擇都充滿「女性特質」，故可用《良友畫報》中眾多女性服飾圖像，論述服飾的文化意義，探討服飾的變遷性、時代性與差異性。第二部分則分門別類探討時常出現在畫報中的女性服飾，像旗袍、運動服以及標誌職業類別的服飾，研究這些服飾的演變與外觀的特色，也論及服飾專欄對女性的影響。第三部分則關注服飾與時代的聯繫。女性一方面想藉由各種樣貌的服飾來宣示自主與獨立，一方面卻仍然受制於整體社會的價值，尤其是男性的目光與審美的宰制，故可以探討女性在服飾上所展現的自我性程度。

整體而言，《良友畫報》不僅是時尚的引領者，也是時代的見證者，當中服飾的展現其實是反映出變動時代的價值觀。

關鍵詞：《良友畫報》、服飾變化、女性、近代中國、上海

關鍵字

《良友畫報》 ； 服飾變化 ； 女性 ； 近代中國 ； 上海

並列摘要

A Study of the Change in Women''s Dresses and Accessories in Modern China ─ Based on the Contents of The Companion Pictorial

Abstract

This thesis attempts to “represent” the image of Chinese female in 1920s and 1930s through an examination of the women’s dresses and accessories in The Companion Pictorial. The Companion Pictorial, which was published from 1926 to 1945, was the most representative magazine in the first half of the 20th century. It on the one hand received great attention from the public and had been extremely popular, but on the other hand reflected common value of the public at the same time.
The Companion Pictorial provides its readers with abundant visual data. The cover girls and women of inside pages have demonstrated different clothing of various professions – becoming a showcase for modern Chinese female. In addition to their outside expression, dresses and accessories also offer some abstract meaning and functions which reveal the identity, will and taste of the individuals who wear them. In this way, we can say that they contain both practical and cultural purposes.
This thesis will be divided into three parts. The first part discusses the characteristics and contents of The Companion Pictorial. Though the magazine did not focus on female readers, there was no doubt that its words and pictures were full of “feminine flavors.” Therefore, the women’s dresses and accessories showing in The Companion Pictorial can become good material for studying the cultural meaning – the transformation of the clothes and the distinctiveness of each period. The second part explores different categories of women’s dresses in the magazine, such as Qipao (cheongsam), sports wear and dresses of different professions. The influence of dresses section of the magazine will also be examined. The third part will study the relations between the times and the dresses. The women on the one hand want to express their independence through their clothes, and on the other hand are still under the influence of common social value, especially the male’s evaluation. Therefore women’s dresses and accessories can reflect the degree of independence of the women.

In general, The Companion Pictorial is not only the fashion leader, but also the witness of the era. Its exhibition of dresses and accessories is, in fact, a reflection of the value of that changing era.

Key Words: The Companion Pictorial; Changes in Dresses and Accessories; Female; Modern China; Shanghai

並列關鍵字

The Companion Pictorial ； Changes in Dresses and Accessories ； Female ； Modern China ； Shanghai

參考文獻

11. 吳圳義，《清末上海租界社會》，台北：文史哲出版社，1978年。

48. 梁惠錦，〈抗戰前後的婦女運動〉，收入《近代中國婦女運動史》，台北：近代中國出版社，2000年。

3. 王明珂，〈羌族婦女服飾：一個民族化過程的例子〉，《中央研究院史與所集刊》，第69卷第4期，1998年，頁843。

5. 王爾敏，〈中國近代知識普及化傳播之圖說形式—《點石齋畫報》例〉，《中央研究院近代史研究所集刊》，第19期，1990年，頁135-172。

7. 石之瑜，〈蔣夫人與中國的國家性質—後殖民父權文化的建構〉，《近代中國婦