摘要
客家族群在中國歷史上歷經多次遷移，為適應生存環境的惡劣和物質的匱乏，發展出以鹽醃製來保存食物的獨特文化，其中豆豉是最具有獨特風味的代表食物，既可單獨佐餐，也可作為調味料，更可與任何葷、素食材共同烹調，以提高食物的風味，形成客家族群的特殊飲食文化──即素、野、粗、雜的特色。 在臺灣南部的六堆地區，早期客家人以務農為生，大量耗費體力，因此客家菜多秉持著傳統「鹹、香、肥」的三個原則，因此豆豉在客家族群中被廣泛利用，儼然成為客家飲食「鹹」的代表，而豆豉更經由日常飲食的傳承，已內化成為個人與族群生活中的記憶，在彰顯客家文化與族群性格中可成為一項重要的印記。 早年製作豆豉是勤勞客家婦女必備的生活技能，在每年冬季大豆收割後，忙著製作豆豉，因此六堆鄉間到處可見曬豆豉的場景，豆豉足以代表客家的飲食文化特色，烙印在每個離鄉遊子的記憶中，成為他們口中的「阿婆的味緒」。為因應生活型態的改變與消費者的需求，在內埔地區於戰後，開始有農民兼營家庭式豆豉產業，約在1981~1986年時達到極盛時期，在新北勢一帶至少有十幾家豆豉工廠，蔚成當地客家人的族群產業。經過研究者一年多的參與觀察，新北勢豆豉的文化內涵，豐富多元，與豆豉相關產品，琳琅滿目，可謂全臺獨步。 本研究旨在探討內埔鄉客家人從事豆豉產業的因緣，透過深度訪談讓業者記憶起豆豉產業發展與興衰過程，了解豆豉產業的形成；其次以豆豉工廠作為觀察的指標，對製作豆豉的設備與製法、產銷與通路進行歸納分析；最後配合文獻分析，思索產業沒落與傳承問題，以及豆豉產業轉型策略，永續及擴大客家豆豉產業之商機，進而打造豆豉成為具有族群特色的文化商品。
並列摘要
Hakka people have been through major migrations over the thousand years in China To survive and adapt the harsh environment during constant migration, they found salts as an ideal method to preserve food. Fermented soybean is one of popular preserved food. It is served not only as a main dish, but also as a cooking sauce. In addition, it goes well with meat and vegetable, and spices up food. With its unique and special flavor, fermented soybean plays a major role in Hakka’s cuisine. To meet the demanding need for energy for their farmers, Hakka food in Liudui community in southern Taiwan follows a traditional “salty, fragrant, fatty” cuisine. Fermented soybean represents that “salty” aspect in Hakka food. It is also internalized and serves as a shared collective memory and an ethnic symbol for Hakka people. In the past, making fermented soybean is a necessary skill for every Hakka women. They start making fsb after winter soy bean harvests every year. The scene of drying fermented soybeancan be seen in countryside. Fermented soybean is representive of Hakk food. Hakka people in the world are always nostalgic of this soy bean food. With the change of life style and consumer’s demand, farmers in Nei-Pu area began to process fermented soybean as a family business. This trend of family business of fermented soybean production peaked during 1981-1996 with more than 10 family factories around New Bei Shi area. The author’s year-long study found that New Bei Shi is second to none in terms of the variety of fermented soybean related products and rich cultural significance in Taiwan. This study focused on Hakka’s production history of fermented beans in the township of Nei-Pu. Through in-depth interviews with business owners, this research conducted an analysis on the following areas: history of development, equipment advancement, production methods, sales, and marketing of fermented soybean. Furthermore, the author reviewed related literature, identified the potential challenges and outlook of this industry; examine the restructuring strategy and business opportunities, offered recommendations to sustain and to expand this unique representative of Hakka traditional food industry.
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