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Flexible Culinary Citizenship and Gastronomic Kinship in A Tiger in the Kitchen: A Memoir of Food and Family

《廚房虎女》中的彈性飲食公民身分與家饌親緣

摘要


This article analyzes Cheryl Lu-Lien Tan's Chinese American food memoir, A Tiger in the Kitchen: A Memoir of Food and Family, to investigate how food, as one of the fundamental material substances of human survival, is linked with illusive memories, and how such a linkage in turn drives the creative energy of the memoirist to record her search for cultural identity and roots while unearthing family secrets. The first part of this article sketches an outline of the emergence of the genre of food memoir in the late twentieth century and then moves on to define the term flexible culinary citizenship to position Tan's text within the tradition of diasporic food writing; the second part presents a reading of Tan's epicurean journeys as an act of reconstructing kinship within a transnational context; it concludes with a critique of the possible practice of self-orientalization in Tan's food memoir.

並列摘要


本文藉由分析新加坡華裔美國作家陳露蓮(音譯)之飲食回憶錄《廚房虎女》探索食物與記憶的關係,以及回憶錄作家如何利用飲食與記憶的關聯,紀錄自身對於文化認同以及族裔根源的追尋與發掘家族秘密。論文第一部分簡述二十世紀後期飲食回憶錄之興起,並且定義筆者所謂的「彈性飲食公民身分」,為《廚房虎女》在離散飲食書寫的傳統中找到定位。第二部分閱讀陳露蓮的飲食之旅如何在跨國脈絡中重建親緣關係。結論部份對於《廚房虎女》潛在的自我東方主義操作做一批判,藉之反省離散族裔作家經常自設之陷阱。

參考文獻


Ashley, Bob,Hollows, Joanne,Jones, Steve,Taylor, Ben(2004).Food and Cultural Studies.London:Routledge.
Avakian, Arlene(2014).Cooking Up Lives: Feminist Food Memoirs.Feminist Studies.40(2),277-303.
Bardenstein, Carol(2002).Transmissions Interrupted: Reconfiguring Food, Memory, and Gender in the Cookbook-Memoirs of Middle Eastern Exiles.Sign.28(1),353-87.
Bourdieu, Pierre,Nice, Richard(trans.)(1984).Distinction: A Social Critique of the Judgment of Taste.Cambridge, Mass.:Harvard UP.
Chua, Amy(2011).Battle Hymn of the Tiger Mother.New York:Penguin.

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