政治環境異動下的臺灣主食文化發展變遷

Developments and Changes in Taiwanese Staple Food Consumption under Changes in Political Environment

陳美慧(Mei-Hui Chen)

《中華飲食文化學術研討會論文集》 第12屆 (2011/11) Pp. 149-166

https://doi.org/10.6641/PICCFC.91012.2011.12.07

摘要

主食是飲食行為中最核心的部分，是最不輕易改變的飲食習慣；然而，日本殖民統治與二次戰後國民政府來臺，卻對此最不容易改變的主食習性造成了兩次重大改變。這兩次改變，都是原本的臺灣社會納入一個新政經架構之下，與新人群產生關聯的結果；然而，在執政者的政策出發點、執行手段，以及飲食習慣的變異程度上，有若干相異點。本文探討臺灣社會的主食習慣如何在這兩大政治生態變遷下產生質變，對臺灣的飲食文化形成哪些影響。日本殖民統治以政治力造成了臺灣主糧品種由在來米成為蓬萊米的大幅全面代換，但由於兩者同為稻米，改變的是主食的口味，種類仍未變，且臺灣社會所需的食糧仍可自給自足。二次戰後國民政府來臺，在新政治結構下，臺灣社會歷經了主食種類轉換的重大改變。麵食在臺灣的發展，固然與美國當時在全球進行的麵粉傾銷策略有很大關係；然而，臺灣社會自身的歷史與情勢造就了獨特的發展過程與結果。麵食在臺灣並非直接代替「米飯」作為「主食」的角色；麵食多以類似傳統分類中「點心」的型態出現，而被作為正餐攝取，形成「正餐點心化」的膳食型態改變。

關鍵字

主食 ； 米食 ； 麵食 ； 飲食文化

並列摘要

Staple food is the core of dietary behavior and the most unchangeable part of dietary habits. However, Japanese colony and R.O.C. governance after W.W. II has brought significant changes to Taiwanese dietary habits concerning staple food. These two changes are both results of Taiwanese society being integrated into a new political-economic structure and thus related to new groups of people. Nevertheless, the two changes differ in terms of government policy, measures adopted, and the extent to which they have influenced the dietary culture of the society. This essay explores the metamorphoses the Taiwanese dietary habits concerning staple food have undergone due to the switches of political ecology. Japanese colony changed the type of main grain in Taiwan, from Indica rice to Japonica rice. Since the two are both rice, it is only preference of texture and taste of staple food that has been changed. Besides, the Taiwanese society remained able to supply itself with the main grain it needed at that time. After W.W.II, the R.O.C. government came to Taiwan, bringing new political structure, under which the Taiwanese society has under gone a great change in its habits of staple food consumption. The development of habits of wheat consuming in Taiwan had much to do with the worldwide wheat promotion by the American government; however, unique process and result of wheat adoption has developed in Taiwan owing to its own historical context and situation. Wheat products did not directly substitute rice as staple food. Instead, they are mostly consumed in forms that resemble ＂snacks＂ in traditional categorization, but considered as meals. A change in food pattern has happened.

並列關鍵字

staple food ； rice food ； wheat food ； food culture