歷史上民族遷徙與雲南人飲食嗜好關係試論

Particular Food Addictions in Yunnan with the Historical Migration

王斯(Si Wang)

《中華飲食文化學術研討會論文集》 第12屆 (2011/11) Pp. 471-485

https://doi.org/10.6641/PICCFC.91012.2011.12.24

摘要

既往對中國飲食文化的研究，多集中在漢族為主體的食生產與食生活，而較少關注少數民族地區的飲食事象。雲南作為「中華民族飲食文化圈」西南區域的重要地域文化構成， 呈現出食物原料豐富多樣，味型突出且以辛辣為主，烹飪方式相對簡單粗放，漢族與少數民族飲食和諧共生， 而飲食文化變他相對遲緩等特點。尤其值得注意的是，雲南地區人們的一些典型飲食嗜好，表現在:嗜糯食;吃昆蟲、花卉、野生菌的嗜好;對酸鹹、辛辣口味的偏重和「嗜生」的飲食風俗;對茶、酒和煙草的嗜好。本文通過考證歷史文獻，回溯雲南地區人口遷徙中的相關飲食事象，並結合人類學田野考察方法，用大歷史時空和跨文化比較的視野試分析歷史上不同時期移民潮與雲南人各種飲食嗜好形成的內在聯繫，認為遷徙的人口構成、遷徙途中為飢餓所迫的飲食習慣影響或強化了遷徙目的地民族的日常飲食偏好，而雲南獨有的馬幫和街市也加強了雲南內部各民族的飲食文化交流，並且，這些飲食嗜好還將在雲南獨特的自然和文化生態中長久地持續下去。

關鍵字

民族遷徙 ； 雲南 ； 飲食嗜好 ； 馬幫 ； 街市

並列摘要

Previous studies on Chinese food culture mostly concentrated on food issues of the Han society, but scattered on food cultures of the minorities. As a significant component of the southwest food cultural circle, Yunnan appears some features like the varieties of food materials, rich and heavy tastes, simple cooking ways, diversities of ethnic cuisines, and food culture changing slowly. The most remarkable thing is people there have some typical addictions to food in such aspects: fondness of soft sticky food; crazy for eating insects, flowers and wild fungi; obsession to salty acidic and spicy food, with the custom of eating raw stuff; and addicted to tea, alcohol and tobacco. From history documents and the fieldwork data, this article analyzes some periods of migrations, proves that the components of the immigrate populations with their food realities and customs on the way influence and emphasize the natives' food habits, also the horse caravan and the street market play a very important role in the food culture exchange. It thinks that Yunnan's particular natural and cultural environment will make these food addictions keep on in the future.

並列關鍵字

ethnic migration ； Yunnan ； food addiction ； horse caravan ； street market