從「吃飽沒？」到「好吃嘸？」－臺灣飲食文化變遷與發展之探析

From ＂Satiate＂ to ＂Delicious ＂ -The Study of Cuisine Culture Change and Development in Taiwan

周勝方(Sheng-Fang Chou) ； 洪久賢(Jeou-Shyan Horng)

《中華飲食文化學術研討會論文集》 第12屆 (2011/11) Pp. 525-555

https://doi.org/10.6641/PICCFC.91012.2011.12.26

摘要

臺灣飲食歷經明清開墾與日本殖民、國民政府戰敗遷臺歷史背景演化下，什麼能代表「臺灣飲食」，答案往往受到各方挑戰，臺灣餐飲發展美味多元，小吃有特色，但臺灣飲食需不需要一套嚴格的定義?還是要如何找到自己的定位，有進行研究調查的必要。經由研究結果發現，整體而言，早期臺灣飲食特色需花較多時間準備，以米飯、豬肉、家禽為主食，而一般平民百姓日常生活以求溫飽為主，光復前由閩南客家族群飲食為主流，菜餚大致以海鮮豐富、醬菜人菜、節令食補等特色，宴席中以蔬菜水果雕刻盤飾為主要特徵，不論燉、炒、蒸或水煮，都趨於清淡味鮮。到了日據時代時受到日本影響，出現了不少冷食或生吃海鮮，所以生鮮冷盤也是料理的一大重點。光復後，隨著國民政府遷臺的外省人士增多，加上國際貿易往來頻繁，為迎合臺灣消費市場飲食習慣、使用在地食材進行烹調，皆促使外省菜系、異國料理與地方料理進行融合， 其料理樣貌多不可數。隨著殖民、戰爭、移民等時空轉換， 中華料理、日本料理、義法料理、泰國料理、美式料理、南亞料理等異國風味，也都影響了臺灣人飲食習，慣，縱觀臺灣餐飲文化無疑是場不斷演進的變遷史，臺菜也不斷的融合與變遷。經由討論分析，在歷史演化下，本研究針對現今臺灣飲食文化發展共提出1.重視感官享受;2價格平易近人;3便利隨手可見; 4.強調美感文化; 5.重新發現食材; 6.多樣創新料理;共六點臺灣菜發展特色，並期未來有更多研究參與分析，找出過去歷史臺灣各族群飲食風貌，建立屬於臺灣自己的歷史文化資料基礎，殿基於傳統懷抱創新未來，以穩健的腳步建立可被識別的飲食特色，兼顧歷史文化傳承與行銷推廣。

關鍵字

戰爭 ； 殖民 ； 移民 ； 臺灣飲食 ； 文化變遷 ； 文化發展

並列摘要

With historical background of Ming and Manchu dynasty reclamation, Japanese colonization and nationalist government resettled from China to Taiwan, what can represent the ＂Taiwan food＂; is often doubted by different parties. Taiwanese food is famous for its diverse tastes and distinctive snacks; however, does it need a strict definition? Or find out its historical position? It is indeed necessary to investigate this topic; therefore, the researchers conducted this study. The results found that early Taiwanese cuisine needs to spend more time in preparation. The staple food included rice, pork and poultry. The civilians mainly focuses on having adequate food instead of paying much attention on quality of food. Before Taiwan restoration, the mainstream of Taiwanese cuisine is Hakka food, with abundant seafood, rich in vegetables into pickles and seasonal characteristics of health supplements. In the banquet, dishes decorated with carved fruits and vegetables as the main feature, whether stewed, fried, steamed or boiled, they tended to be light and delicious. The cuisine had changed during Japanese colonial period, there has been a lot of cold or raw seafood, and cold dishes were also becoming a major focus. After restoration, the population of mainlanders increased because of nationalist government move to Taiwan, and the high frequency of international trade. For cater dietary habits of Taiwan consumers, the cooking style changes to use local ingredients and integrates provincial, local fusion and exotic cuisine. The Taiwan cuisine becomes full of variety. With colonization, war, immigration and space-time transformation, the cuisine of Chinese, Japanese, Italy, French, Thai food, American, South Asia and other exotic cuisine were affecting the eating habits of Taiwanese. Taiwan's food culture undoubtedly is a great cuisine evolution history. Taiwan cuisine has been integrated and changed today. By researchers' investigation in history evolution, this study developed six features of Taiwan cuisine, including attention to senses, affordable price, convenience and visiblity everywhere, stress on aesthetic and culture, rediscover the ingredients, and various creative cuisine. This study also expects more studies involved in analyzing, discovering the style and features of cuisine in early history of Taiwan, in order to establish Taiwan's own history and culture as well as serve as the basis of information. Taiwan cuisine would keep the traditions and develop the innovative future through steadily identifying the cuisine characteristics, including historical and cultural heritages, and marketing promotion strategies.

並列關鍵字

war ； colonization ； immigration ； Taiwan cuisine ； culture evolution ； culture development