從他鄉到故鄉：以李渝小說為例談亂離人的味覺轉向

From Temporary Land to Homeland: the Mainlander's Taste Changes, Take Lee Yu’s Novel for Example

林怡君(Yi-Chun Lin)

《中華飲食文化學術研討會論文集》 第12屆 (2011/11) Pp. 557-571

https://doi.org/10.6641/PICCFC.91012.2011.12.27

摘要

飲食牽涉到的並不只吃和食材本身。風土民情的差異往往造成各地飲食的不同，於是飲食也成了多元文他的一部分。國共戰爭後，遷移臺灣的亂離人雖然仍可以買到故鄉的乾貨，卻不得不逐漸以臺灣當地食材取代故鄉的滋味，這些親近鄉土的生活方式、烹飪方法與飲食內容產生濡化作用，在潛移默化間使外來的亂離人認同生活著的所在地。本文即以李渝「溫州街系列」為例，說明亂離人初時藉飲食懷鄉、後來逐漸轉而以臺灣式食材取代大陸式的口味;而本土食物對亂離人第二代的馴服更加明顯，某些父執輩口中避難他鄉、暫時湊合的食材，卻是亂離人第二代心目中故鄉的滋味。在飲食的轉向中，他鄉的食物終於成為「故鄉」的味道，亂離人心中「舊中國」的力量逐漸消退、轉而扎根於此土此地。飲食口味的轉變，成了亂離人在地化的證明。

關鍵字

亂離人 ； 李渝 ； 飲食 ； 鄉愁 ； 在地化

並列摘要

Diet is a part of culture. After the civil war, a crowd of mainlanders moved to Taiwan. Those who could buy dry food shipped from homekand can not help accepting local ingredients as thier main food. The taiwan- style life, cooking methods and diet have gradually affected the mainlanders. With the process of enculturation, they learn and accept they are surrounded. In this paper, I would like to take Li Yu's ＂Wenzhou Street Series＂ for example, in the beginning, homesick mainlanders look for similar Chinese-style food as comfort. As time went by, they gradually accepted the Taiwan local food. Younger generation accept the local food more, Taiwan-style food became a taste of their hometown. In this process of change, ＂Old China＂ in the mainlanders’ mind gradually disappear, turn out to be planting roots in Taiwan. Tastes change, have become an evidence of ＂localization of mainlanders＂.

並列關鍵字

Mainlander ； Lee Yu ； Diet ； localization