城市化進程中的食街－對南寧中山路的考察

The Food Street under Urbanization - Take the Zhongshan Road of Nanning as An Example

徐天基(Tian-Ji Xu) ； 羅丹(Dan Luo)

《中華飲食文化學術研討會論文集》 第12屆 (2011/11) Pp. 589-604

https://doi.org/10.6641/PICCFC.91012.2011.12.29

摘要

本文運用文化人類學方法，對南寧中山路食街進行田野考察。作為食街的中山路，在城市化和全球化進程中所呈現的多種面向，使得它以文化符號的方式在不斷嬗變。從傳統夜市到「文化食街」的打造，國家、地方、民眾多種話語在此交織，關於身體和慾望的認同，關於移民和歷史的記憶，在有限的空間內獲得了言說歷史的可能性。在這樣一種通常被認為是世俗空間和時間的架構中，中山路如何獲得話語的合法性，又是如何在話語中嬗變？對於身體和慾望的記憶，如何在食街中獲得了表述的策略？這是本文所關注的問題。在中山路的個案中，歷史在身體層面所起的重要作用躍然呈現：一種伴隨著城市化進程的消費慾望如何塑造著空間和時間，在一個地方社會研究框架內，如何闡釋多種群體對夜市的不同話語及建構？此種嬗變中的延續性和非延續性又是怎樣尋找到可以對話的平臺？對於中山路街市的研究，使得全球化與城市化的進程聚焦在這樣一個有限的時空中，對其變遷過程的研究也是對主體歷史記憶的追溯和尋根。

關鍵字

中山路 ； 食街 ； 城市化 ； 街頭文化

並列摘要

Based on the fieldwork in Nanning Zhongshan Road which has been a famous food street, the article focuses on its historical change. As the cultural symbol of Nanning city, the Zhongshan Road represents the multiple facets in the process of globalization and urbanization. It is the Zhongshan food street that acquires the possibilities that expresses the identity of local society and memory of citizens. This article aims to resolve those questions such as: How a desire and identity for food takes part in the construction of time and space in Nanning City? How the diverse discourses converge in the same food street which reflects different social reorganizations from different social strata? Through the deep description and comparative representations between Zhongshan Road and traditional commercial centre in Nanning - Minsheng Road as an example - the sharp contrast between different social cognition is accentuated which lies behind the urbanization of Nanning City. It is the sharp contrast that creates the tension and dynamic of Nanning which exists all the time.

並列關鍵字

Zhongshan Road ； food street ； urbanization ； street culture