建構日本傳統飲食與打造文化旅遊市場：日本酒都的田野調查

Marketing Japanese Food Tradition in Cultural Tourism: Fieldwork in a Japanese ＂Sake＂ Town

吳燕和(David Y. H. Wu)

《2013 中華飲食文化國際學術研討會論文集》 第13屆 (2013/10) Pp. 167-176

https://doi.org/10.6641/PICCFC.13.2013.13.06

摘要

本文報告近兩年在日本的川野工作，在一個江戶時代產酒勝地的新興都市，調查餐廳、咖啡館、酒吧、造酒廠等，及其與二十一世紀日本發展地方文化旅遊的關聯。起初本想研究日本料理在全球商品化之下的含義，但是發現社區大眾參與建構有地方意識的日本飲食與傳統節日。進而訪問地方熱心推動在地文化意識與商業發展的人士，飲食業者、政府官員、藝術家等等，如何參與搞活文藝與飲食活動，吸引本地和外地遊客。本文並討論人類學文化建構與再發明的理論，以及文化乃腦中影像的論述，用以分析日本飲食在全球化之下，跨國跨界的料理、餐館、咖啡館，和餐飲音樂。並說現代日本如何再創造集體記憶的文化傳統慶典。

並列摘要

This presentation deals with recent fieldwork on restaurants, bars, cafes, and breweries in a Japanese ＂sake＂ town, in connection with the 21^(st) Century cultural tourism in Japan. Investigation initially focused on the meaning of Japanese cuisine and global consumerism. However, it was soon discovered that many community members (including entrepreneurs, government officials, restaurateurs, musicians, and artists) collaborated in an effort to reinvent Japanese food, drink, and traditional festivities, which aimed to reinforce a local identity while attract tourists. In view of theoretical discourses of cultural construction and cultural imaginaries in anthropology, I shall further discuss border crossing of Japanese food culture, restaurant genres, and restaurant music in the context of globalization and invention of collective cultural memories in terms of festivities.