小城故事：中國雲南普洱的咖啡與城市建構

為了從全球城市與世界城市模型中尋求更多樣的經驗，迅速崛起的亞洲都會空間成為主要關注對象，尤其在中國快速的城市發展進程，過去研究大多聚焦在所謂第一、二線城市的發展，對於同樣處於多重力量交疊的中小型城市了解並不多。本研究聚焦於西南中國邊境上，雲南省境內的五線城市－普洱，自擔負「中國咖啡之都」的名號以來，普洱是如何在咖啡產業與城市建構的複雜關係中，針對快速變動的咖啡市場做出因應，維持其不斷發展的前進動力。此外，為了進一步揭示中國邊境小城市的多元樣貌，本研究從多重力量的交疊過程出發，理解城市如何受制於不同面向的影響，以及重新形構的城市定位。咖都普洱現已成為中國咖啡的主要產地，但咖啡產業並非突然出現在普洱，而是在1988年雀巢公司進入普洱之後，陸續的建設加上政府政策的推波助瀾，咖啡產業重心便逐漸聚集於普洱。尤其當雲南國際咖啡交易中心2014年在普洱設立之後，更迅速地透過各種策略的運行，開創普洱咖啡產業的市場與發展前景。隨著全球精品咖啡浪潮向中國咖啡消費市場襲來，普洱咖啡產業面臨轉型升級之際，受限於全球市場價格的普洱咖啡，便衍生出眾多相關問題。本研究根據各類文獻資料的蒐集分析，也透過實際參與和訪談咖啡商社群等質性研究方法，檢視咖啡產業更新、蓬勃與掙扎的變動過程，關注中國脈絡下邊境小城市的複雜發展。在理解普洱如何被重塑為一個咖啡語境下的全新城市時，重新檢視來自不同層級的政府力量，以及城市與人們的交織關係，最終都回應了來自國家框架的願景與想像。小城普洱正面臨複雜且緊密的矛盾關係，並且持續地在不同尺度間的斷裂與再連結過程中變動。

關鍵字

咖啡；小城市；普洱；中國；經濟作物

並列摘要

In order to seek more diverse experiences from global cities and world city models, the rapidly emerging Asian metropolitan space has become the main focus of attention, especially in the rapid urban development process in China. Past studies have mostly focused on the development of so-called first- and second-tier cities, we don’t know much about small and medium-sized cities that are also in multiple overlapping powers. This research focuses on Pu'er, a fifth-tier city in Yunnan Province, on the border of Southwest China. Since assuming the title of "China's Coffee Capital", how Pu'er has targeted the rapidly changing coffee industry in the complex relationship between the coffee industry and urban construction. The market responds and maintains its continuous development momentum. In addition, in order to further reveal the diverse appearance of the small border cities in China, this research starts from the overlapping process of multiple forces to understand how cities are subject to the influence of different aspects and the re-structured urban positioning. Pu'er has now become the main area of coffee production in China, but the coffee industry did not suddenly appear in Pu'er. After Nestlé entered Pu'er in 1988, successive constructions and government policies fueled the flames, and the coffee industry gradually concentrated in Pu'er. Especially when the Yunnan International Coffee Exchange was established in Pu'er in 2014, it has more quickly opened up the market and development prospects of the Pu'er coffee industry through various strategies. As the global specialty coffee wave hits the Chinese coffee consumer market, the Pu'er coffee industry is facing transformation and upgrading, and Pu'er coffee, which is limited by the global market price, has caused many related problems. Based on the collection and analysis of various documents, this research also examines the changing process of the coffee industry's renewal, prosperity and struggle through actual participation and interviews with the coffee business community, and focuses on the complex development of small border cities in the context of China. When understanding how Pu'er was reshaped into a brand-new city in the context of coffee, the re-examination of government forces from different levels and the interweaving relationship between the city and people ultimately responded to the vision and imagination from the national framework. The small city of Pu'er is facing complex and close contradictions, and it is constantly changing in the process of fracture and reconnection between different scales.