以釀酒酵母菌及米麴菌發酵仙鶴草生產具皮膚保健功能之產物

皮膚是人體最大的器官，包覆在人體的表面，因此當皮膚因老化而產生變化，最容易被觀察到。隨著預防老化觀念的提升，對於皮膚保健相關的化妝保養品市場也愈來愈興旺。本實驗室先前研究發現，在清酒的發酵過程中加入仙鶴草一起發酵，可以減低仙鶴草對於皮膚纖維母細胞的毒性，對於酪胺酸酶、基質金屬蛋白酶(matrix metalloproteinases，MMP)活性的抑制率雖較乙醇萃取物低，但仍有效果，且有促進type I procollagen生成之功效。唯發酵過程繁複不易生產。故本實驗乃利用清酒製造過程中所使用的兩株微生物Aspergillus oryzae及Saccharomyces cerevisiae發酵仙鶴草乙醇及熱水萃取物，期望能簡化發酵過程，同時，發酵產物對皮膚保健有相當或更好的效果。實驗結果發現，仙鶴草乙醇及熱水萃取物經發酵後在500 μg/ml下皆不具細胞毒性，還可促進纖維母細胞的增生及保護UVA對細胞的傷害，但對於type I procollagen的生成仍有抑制的作用。而在酵素的抑制上，以酵母菌發酵仙鶴草乙醇萃取物有較佳的效果，在500 μg/ml濃度下酪胺酸酶及彈力蛋白酶的抑制率分別為18-37%及13-30%；在400 μg/ml濃度下膠原蛋白酶和明膠蛋白酶抑制率分別為53-88%及56-73%。雖然酵母菌發酵仙鶴草乙醇萃取物對於酪胺酸酶及基質金屬蛋白酶都有不錯的抑制效果，但其發酵液同時也會抑制纖維母細胞type I procollagen生成，所以酵母菌發酵仙鶴草乙醇萃取物之發酵液尚不能作為全面性的皮膚保健產品，而簡化的發酵流程仍需進一步修正。

關鍵字

仙鶴草；發酵；釀酒酵母；米麴菌；纖維母細胞； Type I procollagen ；酪胺酸酶基質金屬蛋白酶

並列摘要

Skin is the largest organ and outer covering of our body. So it can be easily observed when the aging process makes differents on skin. With the promotion of anti-aging concepts, the skin care related market blossoms. In our previous study we found that adding Agimonia pilosa during rice wine fermentation can reduce the cytotoxicity of skin fibroblasts and increase the production of type I procollagen. Although the inhibition of tyrosinase and matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) is not very high, it still has some effects. The problem is the process of fermentation is too complicated and time consuming. Therefore, the objective of this research is to simplify fermentation process and to produce skin-care functional product by the fermentation of Agimonia pilosa using Saccharomyce cerevisiea and Aspergillus oryzae. Results show that at the dosage of 500 μg/ml, the skin fibroblast can proliferate by the treatment of either of the fermentation product utilizing ethanol or hot water extract of A. pilosa as cultivation medium, and they can also protect cells from UVA damage. However, the samples derived from ethanol or hot water extract of A. pilosa would inhibit the production of type I procollagen. Compared with all samples on the inhibition of skin related enzymes, fermentations of ethanol extract of Agrimoina pilosa by Saccharomyces cerevisiae (ES samples) show the best result. The inhibition of tyrosinase and elastase are 18-37% and 13-30% under the concentration of 500 μg/ml, and the inhibition of collagenase and gelatinase are 53-88% and 56-73% under the concentration of 400 μg/ml. Although the ES samples have tyrosinase and MMPs inhibition and antioxidative activity, they can also inhibit type I procollagen production. Because of failure on promoting type I procollagen, the fermentations can not be omnibearing skin-care products. And the procedures of fermenttion should be further improved.