人跟著魚走：崁仔頂漁市場及其非正式性

本研究以因供應現流仔而獨霸一方的崁仔頂漁市場為研究對象，並綜合參與觀察與深度訪談方法蒐集與分析資料，採用Beckert的市場秩序觀點、行動者網絡（actor-network theory）和法制外（extralegality）的分析取徑，嘗試建立一套理解「非正式漁市場的運作和存續」的框架，並拆解漁市場勞動者之勞動現場與勞動條件，討論勞工如何並願意在非正式處境中提供勞務。本研究將崁仔頂漁市場的流變，作為一個臺灣飲食文化在遭逢殖民經驗與冷鏈全球化的轉型見證，並視崁仔頂的現時運作為臺灣獨特飲食文化實踐的空間場域。本文論點是，崁仔頂漁市場的運作與存續象徵一種全球─地方、正式─非正式、自然─社會的二元架構顛覆。一方面，崁仔頂漁市場參與者與勞動者的經濟實踐不僅呈現新鮮文化在全球化的過程中，如何與在地互動，並被地方所理解與接受，揉雜為一套應用於地方的市場運作邏輯，而且新鮮概念不是只取決於自然物性，也受到社會文化的影響。另一方面，在崁仔頂漁市場的合法性不被國家承認，且未受政府管制的處境下，平民百姓憑藉自己的力量，創造出組織市場運作的秩序。本研究的論述核心為，崁仔頂發展為當今臺灣社會重要的現流仔批發市場，是基於三項條件：一是新鮮飲食的觀念普及，二是崁仔頂有供銷現流仔水產商品的市場能力，三是政府忍讓妥協崁仔頂的非正式性。

關鍵字

崁仔頂漁市場；新鮮文化；現流仔；非正式性；法制外

並列摘要

This research takes the Kanzaiding Fish Market as the research field, which is famous in Taiwan because of hiān lâu á products. The research methods include participant observation and in-depth interview. The analytical framework includes three aspects: Beckert's perceptions of market order, actor-network theory and extralegality/ not-yet-legal. Drawing on these theories, I try to solve these puzzles: how does the informal fish market work and to be sustained ? And why do the workers work in such informal situation? The variation of the Kanzaiding Fish Market is considered as the testimony of transformation when food culture in Taiwan suffered the colonial experience and cold chain globalization. This paper take the Kanzaiding Fish Market as a field, practicing unique food culture in Taiwan nowadays. I propose that the existence and operation of the Kanzaiding Fish Market symbolizes a subversion of dualistic structure of global-local, formal-informal, and natural-society. On the one hand, the economic practices of the participants and workers of the Kanzaiding Fish Market not only show how the fresh cultures in the process of globalization interacting with the locals, but also understood and accepted by the locals, mixing into a local market logic. It is worth noting that the concept of freshness does not depend on physical properties, but is also affected by social culture. On the other hand, the Kanzaiding Fish Market is organized and managed by ordinary people. It is not under control of government and do not recognized by government. This research suggests that the Kanzaiding Fish Market as an important hiān lâu á wholesale market nowadays, based on three conditions: the popularization of the concept of fresh food in Taiwan, the Kanzaiding Fish Market providing lots of hiān lâu á products which are popular in Taiwan, and toleration of informality from government.