跨國的珍珠：英國珍珠奶茶消費地景的浮現與轉變

Transnational Bubbles Making Taiwanese Bubble Tea in the UK

林潤華(Jun-Hua Lin) ； 張瓊文(Chiung-Wen Chang) ； 遲恒昌(Heng-Chang Chi)

《地理學報》 87期 (2017/12) Pp. 1-20

https://doi.org/10.6161/jgs.2017.87.01

摘要

「珍珠奶茶」被視為臺灣飲食文化相當具代表性的飲品。隨著移民與留學生的跨國遷徙，深受歡迎的「珍珠奶茶」也逐漸成為移民鄉愁的具體象徵，而當珍珠奶茶此一國民飲料被全球化、跨國傳遞的過程中，如何在異地被消費，並且鑲嵌於該地的日常生活消費地景的過程，則是本研究探討的焦點。本文將珍珠奶茶視為一種文化物質與消費文化現象，以英國作為討論與觀察的地域，企圖梳理珍珠奶茶從臺灣在地化飲食，通過全球化的跨國移動路徑後，在特定國家呈顯出「再在地化」的現象。根據研究者在英國六個城市所進行的田野調查結果分析，本文提出以下兩點主張：第一，珍珠奶茶在銷售上的空間形式具多樣性，依地域性的不同，可分為「依附店家」、「專賣門市」與「街頭飲食」；其中在專賣門市類別中，又可根據經營者屬性之差異，再細分為「獨立品牌」及「連鎖品牌」等經營形態。不同型態的店家為珍珠奶茶詮釋出不同的「商品形象」，其所展演出的「珍珠奶茶文化」也因而迥然各異。第二，本研究也發現到除了部分消費空間仍與臺灣的族裔消費元素保持連結外，事實上有更多店家藉由廣告、材料、製作過程等各式物質或展示所呈現的「道地臺灣(authentic Taiwan)」或「異國風味(exotic taste)」強化了珍珠奶茶與都會年輕族群的消費關聯。換句話說，珍珠奶茶的族裔色彩在全球消費文化的範疇裡正逐漸淡化中，這為珍珠奶茶店在異地在地化的可能立下基礎。

關鍵字

珍珠奶茶 ； 道地 ； 跨國主義 ； 消費

並列摘要

＂Bubble tea＂ is a popular drink in Taiwan, and the representative drink of teashops there. Taiwanese government official statistics list 18,363 drinking shops were registered in 2015, including shops from more than 100 branded chains. As mobility of out-migrants and overseas students increases, ＂bubble tea＂ is becoming a symbol of nostalgia, and can easily be found outside Taiwan. This study views ＂bubble tea＂ as both a cultural material and a consumption phenomenon, and considers how the drinking culture of bubble tea has been embedded in specific countries in a transnational level, and in spaces that provide or make bubble tea in the UK. These commercial spaces are seen as transnational spaces with various relations and representations. This work studies the introduction and ＂relocalisation＂ of ＂bubble tea＂ into some UK cities with different characteristics, namely London, Edinburgh, Glasgow, Oxford, Brighton and Exeter, and focuses on the spatiality of the transnational space. We identify three types of consumption space of bubble tea in the UK, based on the location and the characteristics of merchants. Interestingly, shops interpret ＂bubble tea＂ differently, and provide distinguishing products. As a symbol of ＂authenticity Taiwan＂ or ＂exotic taste＂, merchants sell ＂bubble tea＂ with diverse elements and strategies. Therefore, this ＂tea＂ is gradually becoming a globally popular Asian drink/dessert, but still has strong links to the image of Taiwan, making it a key element of ＂ethnic commodity＂. However, we also argue that the linkage between ＂bubble tea＂ and ＂Taiwanese＂ is also fading simultaneously; enabling the ＂relocalisation＂ of ＂bubble tea＂ in the UK.

並列關鍵字

bubble tea ； authenticity ； transnationalism ； consumption

參考文獻

中華民國行政院財政部[Ministry of Finance, R.O.C.] 2017。財務部共通性查詢目錄結構[cai wu bu gong tong xing cha xun mu lu jie gou]。http://web02.mof.gov.tw/njswww/WebProxy.aspx?sys=100&funid=defjspf2 (擷取日期：2016 年12 月05 日)。

六角國際事業股份有限公司 [La Kaffa International Co., Ltd.] 2016。關於六角國際[guan yu liu jiao guo ji]。http://www.lakaffagroup.com/ (擷取日期：2016 年07 月18 日)。

王烱華、張麗娜[Wang, J. H. and Zhang, L. N.] 2004。「珍奶換軍火」被批兒戲[zhen nai huan jun huo bei pi er xi]。蘋果日報[Pin guo ri bao; Apple Daily]，09 月22 日。https://tw.appledaily.com/headline/daily/20040922/21251558 (擷取日期: 2017 年12 月14 日)。

江慧珺 [Jiang, H. J.] 2015。暑假天天珍奶兩月恐胖 5 公斤[shu jia tian tian zhen nai liang yue kong pang 5 gong jin]。聯合報[Lian he bao; United Daily News]，08 月15 日A6 版。

李佳璇 [Li, J. X.] 2012。開發中大型封口機和整廠設備打造國際級品牌 拓展全球版圖 [kai fa zhong da xing feng kou ji he zheng chang she bei da zao guo ji ji pin pai tuo zhan quan qiu ban tu]。經濟日報 [Jing ji ri bao; Economic Daily News]，08 月04 日U09 版。