2004年聖母峰遠征行動的檢討

A Review of Mt. Everest Expedition in 2004

溫德生(Te-Sheng Wen)

《中華民國航空醫學暨科學期刊》 18卷1期 (2004/06) Pp. 13-21

https://doi.org/10.7011/JAMSRC.200406.0013

摘要

1993年～1996年間，我國共有5位山友分別自北坳和南坳登上聖母峰，其中2人在回程中發生意外，導致1人嚴重凍傷和1人殉山。高山仰止，非有果敢的勇氣和身心的充分準備，將難以征服天險和完成風願。
今年初，作者以航訓中心的低壓艙對高雄縣中華健行登山會四位中年的山友，實施靜態和動態的低氧耐力訓練，總計31次，期能協助他們對高山頂攬的適應，成功地完成壯舉。後來，因當地氣候惡劣，山難頻傳，遂於完成7,000公尺攀登後，決定全身而退，不失為明智之舉。
高山病和低溫傷害的預防和治療，皆屬於軍陣醫學的範疇，中國大陸、印度、以及許多歐美國家多有研究成果。從協助山友們的訓練，分享他們的高山經驗，可分析其成敗原因，對日後登山活動的支持和軍陣醫學的實踐皆有助益。

關鍵字

急性高山症 ； 高山肺水腫 ； 缺氧耐力 ； 低壓艙

並列摘要

From 1993 to 1996, five mountaineers from Taiwan have successfully c1imbed to the Mt. Everest from Tibet and Nepal. Unfortunately, two of them got accident on the midway from the peak during a snowstorm. One lost of his live and one suffered from severe frostbite needed to be amputation. The mountain is too high! Unless having had remarkable courage and well preparation, they could not conquest the impregnable natural barriers to fulfill their ambition.
At the beginning of 2004, the author and my col1eagues conducted thirty-one chamber flights for static and dynamic hypoxic tolerance training using altitude chamber as the request of four middle-aged mountaineers from Koa-Hsiung Mountaineer society. It was expected to help them with adaptation in the circumstances of high altitude. Later, due to the vile weather condition and accident of other foreign team, they had to retreat after reaching 7, 000 feet. It is very wise not to take risk.
Understanding the danger of mountain sickness and hypothermia for prevention and medication is essential to military medicine. So far, there were a great number of researches done by China, India, and other Western countries focusing on this topic.
Training mountaineers and sharing their experience of expedition will benefit not only wilderness activities but also military operation in the future.

並列關鍵字

acute mountain sickness ； altitude pulmonary edema ； hypoxic tolerance ； altitude chamber