臺灣青草茶文化之研究

Herb Tea Culture in Taiwan

陳貴凰(Kaui-Hwang Chen) ； 林曉莉(Hsiao-Li Lin)

《島嶼觀光研究》 5卷3期 (2012/09) Pp. 35-73

https://doi.org/10.29859/JITR.201209.0003

摘要

本研究旨在探討臺灣青草茶文化，針對熟悉青草茶專家10位進行深度訪談及參與觀察法蒐集資料分析獲得：首先，產品適應調整孕育是由生產製備青草茶過程「與青草同在」與人們飲用青草茶動機「名號之發揚」所建構，雖因時代變遷造成青草茶生產設備改變，但仍有很多業者遵循傳統古法，將來自臺灣本土在地青草原料熬煮提煉出菁華；人們在飲用青草茶時，仍保有「有病治病，無病強身」的觀念，更有「信者恆信、不信者恆不信」之想法。其次，消費時空經驗轉變部分，歲時的智慧累積出「伴我渡涼夏」，夏天是最常見的飲用青草茶時機點，主要是受青草茶性涼、氣候高溫之影響，形成「退火消暑、生津止渴」觀念；又基於消費者需求下發生「飲場域移轉」現象，青草茶取得方式由自製轉向外購，進而帶動青草茶商業化經營發展至今，販售青草茶地點多元化、盛裝容器便利化與重視包裝設計等。最後，在人際關係情感維繫方面，青草茶在人與人「眾生的助瀾」行銷宣傳互動下，雖累積對青草茶店家忠誠度，但業者面臨法令限制、本土與外來各式飲料競爭等挑戰，生存空間受到壓縮；同時發現，至今除了仍有藉助宗教力量求藥籤之民俗療法存在，亦有以「出於善意，關心朋友」為出發點，藉由人間媒介「吃好道相報」口耳相傳讓青草偏方繼續流傳，進而衍生出人與神、人與人的人際關係，以「神祉的寄託」來尋求心靈上撫慰，讓臺灣青草茶文化繼續傳承中。

關鍵字

青草茶 ； 飲料 ； 飲食文化 ； 臺灣

並列摘要

The main purpose of this study is to explore the herb tea culture in Taiwan. After engaging in in-depth interviews with 10 experts familiar with herb tea, and participant observation for data collection and analysis, data are coded and summarized. First, product adaptation, adjustment, and cultivation are constructed from the processes of producing herb tea by ”coexisting with herb” and organisms motivation for drinking herb tea in ”promotion of reputation.” Even though times have changed, resulting in major changes in the production facilities for herb tea, there remain many businesses that follow more traditional and ancient methods, of cooking and extracting the essence of local herb materials in Taiwan. When people drink herb tea, they continue to have the concept of ”curing sickness and strengthening health,” and that ”believers believe, unbelievers do not believe.” Then, through changes in consumption contexts and experiences, age-old wisdom has led to the concept of ”accompanying me through a cool summer,” in which summer is the popular time to drink herb tea, and is primarily affected by the cool medicinal character of herb tea and high temperatures in the summer, leading to the ”dispelling fire and heat, while producing saliva to quench thirst” concept. Consumer demand has produced the ”transference of drinking location” phenomenon, when the ways for obtaining herb tea has turned from self-production to external purchase, which has in turn motivated commercial operations in herb tea. Currently, there are many places that sell herb tea, the containers have become convenient, and there is an emphasis on design of packaging. Finally, in terms of maintaining interpersonal relationships and feelings, under interpersonal ”word of mouth” of marketing and promotional interaction in herb tea, even though this accumulates loyalty for herb tea stores, vendors face regulatory restrictions, as well as challenges with various domestic and foreign drinks, resulting in compressed survival space. Meanwhile, in addition to people who still use religious power to seek medicine for folk treatments, there are people who ”share what is good” due to ”caring about friends out of benevolence,” thus, herb tea formulas continue to be passed on. This, in turn, leads to interpersonal relationships between people and between gods and people, where ”reliance on gods” leads to spiritual calm, and continues to pass on Taiwan's herb tea culture.

並列關鍵字

Herb tea ； Beverage ； Food Culture

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