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  • 會議論文

拉麵飲食在戰後東亞地區的普及及其社會文化意涵

The Process and the Social and Cultural Implications of amen's Popularization in East Asia after World War II

摘要


日本九州島由於長久以來作為日本對中國和韓國的重要外交據點,讓她成為中華飲食導入日本的重要關口之一。本論文以九州拉麵作為研究對象,透過研究資料、新聞報導及企業訪談與財務報告等研究方法,分析企業的經濟活動如何對拉麵飲食的普及化及社會定位成影響。以臺灣華僑劉耘祥於戰後創設的熊本味千拉麵為例,從期企業發展史窺探日本在戰後逐漸接受中華拉麵成為庶民主食的歷程,接著探討二十一世紀後,熊本味千將日本拉麵導入中國大陸,建立脫離庶民形象營造中產階級的休閒飲食品牌過程。這樣的發展路程充分反應拉麵從移入日本後成為「外來的移民飲食」;在戰後的美援契機下,「在地化成庶民主食」,之後又回流中華飲食圈,經由品牌提升,成為「中產階級休閒餐飲」的社會意涵轉換過程,其中企業的經濟活動作用力更是不可小覷。

並列摘要


Japan's Kyushu island has been a vital diplomatic base to China and to Korea, thus it has been thought as one of the important gates importing Chinese food culture into Japan. In this paper, resources such as research papers, news reports, annual reports and interviews relating to the subject of Ramen were used to analyze how the enterprises' activities influence the popularization of Ramen and its social status. In a case study of Ajisen Ramen established by overseas Taiwanese Liu Yun Xiang, we learnt the acceptance of Chinese-flavored Ramen by the Japanese society as a local staple food in its history of business development. This paper also focuses on how Ajisen China changes its brand image into a modem leisure food brand to attract the interests of the middle class in China's market. In the developing path of Ramen, Chinese-flavored Ramen had been the "food of immigrants" as it became a local food in the post-World War II Japan, then returned to the Greater China region rebranding Reman as a "leisure food for the middle class." Thus, the actitivies of enterprises play a critical role in shifting the social implication of Ramen within East Asia.

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