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戰後香港的飲食影像-以五、六十年代香港電影為研究核心

The Hong Kong Post-war Eating Portrait-by the 50s' and 60s' Hong Kong Movies

摘要


香港位處中國南陲,是華洋雜處的聚居地,飲膳款式五花八門。回顧五、六十年代,香港多元的飲食文化已漸見初形。香港與廣東省為鄰,一直受粵式飲食文化影響,直至十九世紀,西式飲食隨英國殖民流入香港,社會上漸見洋化的食肆與菜色,這為日後西方飲食文化的發展建立基礎。四十年代,二次大戰與國共內戰相繼爆發,受戰事影響,中國各省的人口大量南遷香港。北方人口於香港聚集,帶來道地的菜色與烹調方法,而北方菜館的增多,對香港傳統粵菜造成打擊。南來移民除帶來北方的口味,上海人還引入當地的西式飲食文化,於殖民、戰爭與遷移的影響下,西餐於五、六十年代迅速發展,成為香港飲食文化的主流之一。五、六十年代的香港,因戰爭、移民與殖民的關係,形成多元、複雜的飲食文化。電影作為記錄影音的媒介,一方面可反映當時的飲食環境,而電影中的飲食元素,亦能表達不同的思想內容。本文嘗試以五、六十年代的香港電影為線索,勾勒當時的飲食方式,以了解西餐如何經由殖民、遷移流入香港,並從不同階層、年齡的香港人作切入,探討當時西餐與他們的關係。此外,北方的飲食文化因戰爭而南遷香港,透過分析當時的香港電影,可了解北方菜對粵菜帶來的衝激,同時能釐清南、北飲食文化間的不同關係。

並列摘要


Hong Kong which located on the South of China, is a place lived with Chinese and Westerners. Therefore, the variety of food is awesome. Reviewing the 50s' and the 60s', the diversification of Hong Kong Food Culture began on the Post-war period. Hong Kong is neighbor of the Guangdong province and the food culture is mainly affected by the Yue-style. The circumstances changed on the 19th century as the Western food culture came with the British colonial emperor. Though the Western styled food is not very popular, it became the base of Hong Kong western food culture. In the 40s', the Second World War and the civil war began. Many Chinese moved to the South because of the wars and constantly Hong Kong assembled people from different provinces and also the Northern Food Culture. They came with their Northern food and cooking method and constantly Northern food styled restaurant increased. This phenomenon, to a certain extent, affected Hong Kong's traditional Yue-style food. The immigrants from the North not only brought the food culture to Hong Kong, the Shanghai people also brought with their Western eating culture. Therefore, as the result of colonization, wars and immigrations, Western styled food developed rapidly in the 50s' and 60s' and became one of the main stream in Hong Kong food culture. Because of wars, immigration and colonization, the 50s' and 60s' Hong Kong food culture became various and somehow complicated. Film as a media to document the image and sound can act as a reference of the eating environment at that time. Also, the food elements in the films can be used to express different thinking. This paper will try to sort out the food culture in Hong Kong by the film in the 50s' and 60s' and to comprehend how the Western food came into Hong Kong by immigrations and colonization. Also, it will also find out how Western food connected with Hong Kong's different class and age group. What's more is that by the 50s' and 60s' Hong Kong films, we can understand how Northern food affected the Yue-styled food. And to observe the resistance between them and how they integrate later on.

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