追尋台灣的葡萄酒風味：以彰化二林鎮為例

Exploring the flavor of Taiwanese wine : the case of Erh-lin's wine industry

陽政育(Cheng-Yu Young)

指導教授 ： 陳良治

國立臺灣大學/工學院/建築與城鄉研究所/碩士(2013年)

https://doi.org/10.6342/NTU.2013.01601

摘要

本研究有三目的，一、探討出二林鎮葡萄酒產業的建立過程；二、討論其相關成員在自身風味追尋上的方式，和這些方式如何受到成員間互動的影響；三、區域葡萄酒產業建構自身對於文化及市場影響力的要素。
本研究透過深度訪談二林鎮葡萄酒產業的相關成員，包含酒莊業者、地方組織、政府部門以及學術和研究單位，描繪二林鎮製酒業者如何在公賣局終止釀酒葡萄契作，且廢除近60年的專賣制度和技術壟斷後，面臨著釀酒技術知識的缺乏、自然條件與葡萄品種的限制，走向極具活力的二林鎮葡萄酒產業。
研究發現，公賣局契作時期的種植和品種開發，到後續接手育種的台中農改場以及政府政策補助學術單位的釀酒課程，成了建構二林鎮葡萄酒產業的基礎。在此基礎下，二林鎮以釀酒課程和定期舉辦的葡萄酒比賽－紫晶盃，建立起區域內外的釀酒相關知識技術的交流網絡，進而開展了對於自身風味的追尋。
最後筆者以「風土能量」一概念，嘗試解釋區域葡萄酒產業如何以風土能量為核心，向外建構制度影響環和風味論述環，使其葡萄酒產業在消費市場和文化輸出上更具影響力。

關鍵字

區域創新系統 ； 風土 ； 風味 ； 釀酒葡萄 ； 二林鎮葡萄酒產業 ； 風土能量

並列摘要

The purposes of this study are to (1) investigate the development process of wine industry in Erh-lin, Changhwa ; (2) discuss the various means uses by Erh-lins’ winemakers to pursue their own flavor of wine, and how these means have been affected by the interaction among actors in this industry; (3) analyze relevant factors influencing the wine market and culture in a region.
Based on 16 cases of in-depth interviews with critical actors in Erh-lin’s wine industry, such as winemakers, local organizations, government agencies and research institutes, this study investigates how the winemakers in Erh-lin overcame difficulties in the process of making local wine, including the lack of technological knowledge, and the limitation of local natural environment and grapes, etc., allowing them to build a vigorous wine industry.
The study finds that emergence of Erh-lin’s wine industry was based on (1) the long history of local contract farming of wine grape for Taiwan Tobacco and Wine Monopoly Bureau, (2) the follow-up research efforts of Taichung District Agricultural Research and Extension Station, and (3) the winemaking courses supported by government agencies and academic institutes. Moreover, through continuing providing winemaking courses and hosting local wine competition, the Amethyst Cup, the interactive learning networks for acquiring wine-making related knowledge and technologies gradually developed in Erh-lin..
Finally, this study proposes a concept called "terroir energy", to explain how a regional wine industry could augment its influences on the consumer market and culture.

並列關鍵字

Regional inovation system ； Terroir ； Flavor ； Vitis vinifera ； Terroir energy

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