Title

美的追求與自我的改造—BBS網路的美妝與生活實踐論述分析

Translated Titles

Quest for beauty and better self-image ---- Multi-textual analysis on the embodied making-up experience

Authors

賴思彣

Key Words

化妝 ; BBS ; 虛擬社群 ; 消費文化 ; 儀式 ; makeup ; BBS ; virtual community ; consumption ; ritual

PublicationName

政治大學廣播電視學研究所學位論文

Volume or Term/Year and Month of Publication

2007年

Academic Degree Category

碩士

Advisor

柯裕棻

Content Language

繁體中文

Chinese Abstract

本研究設定參與批踢踢美妝版討論的年輕彩妝族群為目標研究對象,假設透過彩妝族群群體討論彩妝議題的方式,不僅可以掌握彩妝活動本身的形貌、內容與特性;更可以由討論呈現看出彩妝實踐者在日常生活中執行彩妝活動的方式,以及其對彩妝活動投入的情感乃至於相關的價值傳遞,藉此得以推敲彩妝族群熱衷於化妝的理由,解析美妝論述的內涵。 綜合網路文本分析、深度訪談與田野觀察三法蒐集資料,將網路社群互動特性區隔為媒介與議題兩大面向,受媒介特性影響BBS美妝版之互動有團體意識、網路從眾性、網路規則與團體極化四大特色,回歸議題討論方式則可區隔為消費、妝容打造技巧與意見交流三大類型討論。由此可知,「美的意識」與「化妝的價值」是美妝論述的重要核心,並據此結合學理發展討論進行深度概念分析。 本研究認為化妝第一層次的意義是融入社會的具體策略,行動者認為透過此策略得以幫助自己以較有利的正向姿態進入社會生活,這不僅肇於實踐者將化妝與「正面特質」高度連結,更重要的是生活中化妝儀式的執行過程的勞動成品,除了更「好」的身體外,還有稱為「自信」的精神成分推動著化妝儀式的永續執行。此外,化妝的正向感受亦來自過程中對於器物與技法的掌握控制,化妝活動的執行並非渾然天成的性別天賦,而是學習教養的歷程;技法操演的遊戲樂趣、對彩妝品項的物件愛戀,創造了彩妝實踐同中有異的細微差別,帶來探索多變的快意。擁有並隨心所欲掌握那些許的不同,是推動每日演練化妝並從中得到難以言傳之滿足感的深層動力。 化妝作為當代日益普及的社會現象,作為年輕世代、網路彩妝社群的特殊文化現象,不可單純由消費社會印象管理的角度解讀,亦不可僅由性別批判觀點切入。本研究一方面不忽略消費社會所提供之場景,特別是化妝活動對商品消費的深度涉入,以及消費社會對身體裝飾提供之大量參考文本,提供本研究別具備脈絡的解讀觀點。另一方面亦不忽略化妝作為女性特殊經驗的觀點,重視且回歸受訪者真實經驗為論證基礎,同理彩妝實踐者之情感並認可其能動性,落實真正實踐者發聲的研究特性,並不忘環境結構對個體之影響,提出具脈絡的社會性觀點陳述解釋彩妝文化現象,是為本文最具特色與價值的研究貢獻。

English Abstract

This article takes members of virtual community on PTT’s MakeUp conference as main research target. It is assumed that that the makeup issues discussed within bulletin board conference not only depicts the figure and key factors of makeup activity but also proves makeup as an important roles in daily life. All above are deep influenced and composed by beliefs or ideologies of contemporary social context and these insights show us a way to find answers to the question: why girls are so obsessed with makeup. Through text analysis of conference within BBS, interviewing in depth and field research, this article categorizes the characteristics of communication within MakeUp into two perspectives: media oriented and topic oriented. The former based on the emphasis of virtual community perspective includes community solidarity, conformity, netiquette and polarization. The later based on the viewpoint of the topic under discussion includes consumption, makeup skill sharing and opinion trade. This shows the consciousness of being beautiful and the value of makeup are the core of cosmetic discourse. This research reveals that the behavior of makeup signifies two layers of meanings nowadays. The first layer is to take makeup as a beneficial posture for entering social or public life. This fact demonstrates: (1) the high connection between positive values and makeup (2) positive thinking toward applying cosmetics (while these labor products are made) -- Approaching a nicer body and ‘self-confidence’ sustainingly motivates the ritual. Besides, the complete control over cosmetics goods and the face-building process are also the source of pleasure which is not only the second meaning of makeup but also the deeper driving energy of daily makeup ritual. Taking makeup as a spreading cultural phenomenon, it can not be understood from single viewpoint such as consumerism or feminism. For this reason, this article on the one hand takes the consumer society as a background context to get the idea of using cosmetics to make-up the face in daily life. It on the other hand goes deeply into the experiences and practice of those who really love makeup. Through these aspects, this essay eventually gives a sketch for contemporary makeup culture study on both social structure and personal agency as a major contribution.

Topic Category 傳播學院 > 廣播電視學研究所
社會科學 > 傳播學
Reference
  1. 何修譯(1992)。《美貌的神話》。台北:自立。(原書Naomi, W. [1992]. The beauty myth how images of beauty are used against women. New York: Doubleday)
    連結:
  2. 邱承君(2006)。〈網誌、網誌活動與網誌世界:在理論與實踐間遞迴往覆〉,《資訊社會研究》,10:107-146。
    連結:
  3. 張君玫譯(1997)。《重塑女體:美容手術的兩難》。台北:巨流。(原書Davis, K. [1995]. Reshaping the female body the dilemma of cosmetic surgery. New York: Routledge.)
    連結:
  4. 梁家鈞譯(2007)。《W行銷——全面透視女性消費心理》。台北,高寶。(原著Cunningham, J., & Roberts, P. [2006]. Inside her pretty little head: a new theory of female motivation and what it means for marketing.)
    連結:
  5. 郭宣靆(2007)。〈「聰明行動族」研究者霍華德?瑞格德介紹暨部落格、P2P發展大事紀〉,《資訊社會研究》,12:1-48。
    連結:
  6. 黃秀敏譯(2000)。〈鏡中美女:從江戶時代的化妝書看美容意識的變遷〉,《新史學》,12(2):41-73。(原文鈴木則子)
    連結:
  7. 喻蓉蓉(1993)。〈淡妝濃抹總相宜—中國古代女性美與化妝術〉,《歷史月刊》,180:15-27。
    連結:
  8. 葉立誠(2006)。《服飾美學》。台北:商鼎文化。
    連結:
  9. 蔡惠如(2006)。《品牌策略與通路策略對市場績效關係之研究:以知名品牌歐、美、日系化妝品為例》。中原大學企業管理研究所碩士論文。
    連結:
  10. 閻蕙群、陳俐雯譯(2004)。《風格美感經濟學》。台北,商智文化。(原書Postrel, V. [2003]. The substance of style: how the rise of aesthetic value is remaking commerce, culture and consciousness.)
    連結:
  11. Ashikari, M. (2005). Cultivating Japanese whiteness: the ‘whitening’ cosmetics boom and the Japanese identity. Journal of Material Culture, 10(1), 73-91.
    連結:
  12. Cash, T. F., Dawson, K., Davis, P., Bowen, M. & Galumbeck, C. (1989 ). Effects of cosmetics Use on the physical attractiveness and body image of American college women. The Journal of Social Psychology, 129 (3), 349-55.
    連結:
  13. Corson, R. (1972). Fashions in makeup: from ancient to modern times. Plymouth: Clarke, Doble and Brendon Ltd.
    連結:
  14. Craik, J. (1994). Cosmetic attributes: techniques of make-up and perfume. In J. Craik (Ed.), The face of fashion: cultural studies in fashion (pp. 153-175). London: Routledge.
    連結:
  15. Dellinger, C., & Williams, C. L. (1997). Make up at work: negotiating appearance rules in thr workplace. Genders & Society, 11(2), 151-177.
    連結:
  16. Darling-Wolf, F. (2004). Sites of attractiveness: Japanese women and westernized representations of Feminine beauty. Critical Studies in Media Communication, 21(4), 325-345.
    連結:
  17. Fairclough, N. (2003). Analysis discourse: textual analysis for social research. New York: Routledge.
    連結:
  18. Featherstone, M. (1991). The body in consumer culture. In M. Featherstone (Ed.), The body: social process and cultural theory (pp. 170-196). London: Sage.
    連結:
  19. Fernback, J.& Thompson, B. (1995). Virtual communities: Abort, retry, failure? [On-line]. Available: http://www.well.com/user/hlr/texts/VCcivil.html.
    連結:
  20. Gilman, S. L. (1999). Judging by appearances. In S. L. Gilman (Eds.), Making the body beautiful: a cultural history of aesthetic surgery (pp. 3-42). Princeton: Princeton University Press.
    連結:
  21. Jones, Q. (1997). Virtual-communities, virual settlements & cyber-archaeology: A theoretical outline. Journal of Computer Mediated Communication, [On-line], 3(3). Available: http://www.ascusc.org/jcmc/vol3/issue3/jones.html.
    連結:
  22. Klein, E. (1971). A comprehensive etymological dictionary of the English language: dealing with the origin of words and their sense development thus illustrating the history of civilization and culture. Amsterdam: Elsevier Pub. Co.,
    連結:
  23. Negrin, L. (2000). Cosmetics and the female body: a critical appraisal of poststructuralist theories of masquerade. European Journal of Cultural Studies, 3(1), 83-101.
    連結:
  24. Smith, D. E. (1990). Femininity as discourse. In D. E. Smith (Ed.), Texts, facts, and femininity: exploring the relations of ruling (pp. 159-208). London: Routledge.
    連結:
  25. Taylor, S. (2001). Locating and conducting discourse analytic research. In M. Wetherell, S. Taylor, & S. Yates (Eds.), Discourse as data: a guide for analysis (pp. 5-48). London: Sage.
    連結:
  26. Theberge, L., & Kernaleguen, A. (1979). Importance of cosmetics related to aspects of the self. Perceptual and motor skills, 48, 827-830.
    連結:
  27. Van Dijk, T.A. (1997). The study of discourse. In T.A. van Dijk (Ed.), Discourse as structure and process (pp. 1-34). London: Sage.
    連結:
  28. Young, I. M. (1990a). Throwing like a girl: a phenomenology of feminine body comportment, motility, and spatiality. In I. M. Young (Ed.), Throwing like a girl and other essays in feminist philosophy and social theory (pp. 141-159). Bloomington: Indiana University Press.
    連結:
  29. Young, I. M. (1990b). Breasted experience: the look and feeling. In I. M. Young (Ed.), Throwing like a girl and other essays in feminist philosophy and social theory (pp. 189-209). Bloomington: Indiana University Press.
    連結:
  30. 刁筱華譯(2001)。《口紅:自信的儀式,時尚、魅惑與自我的迷幻配方》。台北:藍鯨。(原書Pallingston, J. [1999]. Lipstick.)
  31. 尤昱婷(2003,7月)。〈Max Factor:好萊塢傳奇〉。《壹週刊》,110, 152-156。
  32. 史倩玲(2005,6月)。〈Blog全球旋風〉。《數位時代》,108, 56-61。
  33. 江淑琳譯(2003)。《網路的哲學省思》。台北:偉伯文化。(原書Graham, G. [1999]. The Internet a philosophical inquiry. New York: Routledge)
  34. 沈美雪譯(2005)。《美麗是妝出來的:為什麼女人不化妝就不出門》。台北:時報。(Ishida, K. [2000]. Keshou sezu niwa ikirarenai ningen no rekishi. Japan: Kodansha.)
  35. 呂紹理(2006,11月)。〈斷髮放足之後:化妝與台灣現代身體美感的形成〉。「台灣文學與東亞現代性國際學術研討會」,台北市木柵。
  36. 李秀蓮(1996)。《中國化妝史概說》。台北,揚智文化。
  37. 林祐佑(2006)。〈女性消費需求研究6:女人寵愛自己的消費與生活〉。線上檢索日期:2007年3月 26日。網址:
  38. http://www.isurvey.com.tw/cgi-bin/big5/file/pu50?&q1=v2&q22=3293&q7=20&q8=20070326-163.28.32.1006:25&q9=144&q2=2&q33=化妝品&q34=&q35=&q36=&q37=&q99=
  39. 芮傅明、趙學元譯(1992)。《宗教生活的基本形式》。台北:桂冠。(原書Durkheim, E. [1915]. The elementary forms of the religious life. London: George Allen & Unwin.)
  40. 袁蕙晴(2002)。《數位年代的女性啟蒙》。嘉義:南華社會所。
  41. 孫治本(2002)。〈BBS上的社群〉,《當代》,181:14-33。
  42. 張錦華譯(1995)。《傳播符號學理論》。台北:遠流。(原書Fiske, J. [1990]. Introduction to communication studies. New York: Routledge.)
  43. 張美惠譯(1999)。《美之為物》。台北:時報。(原書Etcoff, N. [1999].)
  44. 張君玫譯(2001)。《文化消費與日常生活》。台北:巨流。(原書Storey, J. [1999]. Cultural consumption and everyday life. London: Arnold.)
  45. 陳向明(2002)。《社會科學質的研究》。台北:五南。
  46. 陳美靜譯(2001)。《網路心理講義》。台北:天下文化。(原書Wallace, P. [1999]. The psychology of the internet. New York: Cambridge University Press.)
  47. 陳啟成(2003)。《藝術與人文:美感生活與品味的再提昇》。台北:大陸書店。
  48. 陳素秋譯(2006)。《文化社會學的實踐》。台北,韋伯文化。(原書Edles, L. D. [2002]. Cultural sociology in practice. Malden: Blackwell Publishers.)
  49. 陳淑玲(1997)。《國際化妝品公司在台灣行銷通路之研究》。國立成功大學國際企業研究所碩士論文。
  50. 陳麗菲(1997)。《妝飾:審美的流動》。上海:上海文化。
  51. 動腦編輯部(2005,10月)。〈Blog人潮怎麼變錢潮〉,《動腦》,354, 35-36。
  52. 甯應斌(2004)。〈「減肥瘦身」的女性主義標準答案錯在哪裡?—從「飲食消費與現代性」到「性感美貌的多元與普及」〉,甯應斌(編著),《身體政治與媒體批判》,頁141-204,中壢:中央大學性/別研究室。
  53. 黃恆正譯(1988)。《符號社會的消費》。台北:遠流。(原書星野克美、清木真茂、剛本慶一、稻增龍夫與紺野登)
  54. 曾科融(2006)。〈電視用「節目」取悅女人愛美的心〉。線上檢索日期:2007年3月 26日。網址:
  55. http://211.75.90.29/cgi-bin/big5/file/pu50?&q1=v2&q22=3602&q7=20&q8=20070326-163.28.32.1046:00&q9=144&q2=1&q33=化妝品&q34=&q35=&q36=&q37=&q23=&q99=93453008
  56. 彭翠亭(2005)。〈彩妝市場向下紮根〉。線上檢索日期:2007年3月 26日。網址:
  57. http://www.isurvey.com.tw/cgi-bin/big5/file/pu50?&q1=v2&q22=2722&q7=20&q8=20070326-163.28.32.1006:25&q9=144&q2=3&q33=化妝品&q34=&q35=&q36=&q37=&q99=93453008
  58. 楊啟嵐譯(1999)。《鏡子:美的歷史》。台北,時報。(原書Paquet, D. [1997]. Miroir, mon beau, miroir une histoire de la beaute.)
  59. 楊文菁、史倩玲(2005,6月15日)。〈專家看中文部落格發展趨勢:中文Blog,誰引領風騷〉。《數位時代》,108, 76-79。
  60. 鄭靜宜譯(2004)。《流行溝通》。台北,桂冠。(原書Barnard, M. [1996]. Fashion as communication. New York: Routledge)
  61. 劉玉珍(2006)。〈蓄勢待發的化?品產業〉。線上檢索日期:2007年3月 27日。網址:http://www.cnfi.org.tw/kmportal/front/bin/ptdetail.phtml?Part=magazine9505-434-11
  62. 蔚蔚(2005)。《Easy彩妝:化妝的第一本書》。台北,商周。
  63. 蕭新煌(2001)。《迎接美感社會的來臨:現代社會生活與美感》。台北:藝術館。
  64. 薛絢譯(1999)。《美學地圖:美感與創意的驚奇之旅》。台北:台灣商務。(原書Robinson, J. [1997]. The quest for human beauty. New York: W.W. Norton & Company.)
  65. 蘇皇寧譯(2004)。《芭比波朗美麗的演繹:邁向終身美麗的指南》。台北:太雅。(原書Brown, B,. & Wadyka, S. [2002]. Bobbi Brown beauty evolution a guide to a lifetime of beauty. Springboard Press.)
  66. 羅松濤(2005)。《打造完美肌膚的時尚品牌—雅詩?蘭黛》。台北,新瀚。
  67. Baudrillard, J. (1998). The consumer society: myths & Structures. London: Sage.
  68. Frost, L. (1999). “Doing looks”: women, appearance and mental health. In J Arthurs,. and J. Grimshaw, (Eds.), Women’s bodies: discipline and transgression (pp. 117-136). London: Cassell.
  69. Lakoff, R. T., & Scherr, R. L. (1984). Face value: the politics of beauty. Boston: Routledge & Kegan Paul.
  70. Moore, B., & Moore, M. (1997). NTC’s dictionary of Latin and Greek origins. Chicago: NTC Publishing Company.
  71. Peiss, K. (1996a). Feminism and the history of the face. In T. R. Schatzki, & W. Natter (Eds.), The social and political body (pp. 161-180). New York: The Guilford Press.
  72. Peiss, K. (1996b). Making up, making over: cosmetics, consumer culture, and women’s identity. In V. de Grazia, & E. Furlough (Eds.), The sex of yhings: gender and consumption in historical perspective (pp. 311-336). Berkely, Los Angeles, and London: University of California Press.
  73. Stannard, U. (1971). The mask of beauty. In V. Gornick, & B. K. Moran (Eds.), Woman in sexist society: studies in power and powerlessness (pp. 118-130). New York: Basic Books.
Times Cited
  1. 吳宜倫(2011)。女性之裝扮行為意涵研究—以「化妝休息室」為例。中原大學室內設計研究所學位論文。2011。1-170。 
  2. 林怡君(2008)。美妝達人部落格商品置入探討。政治大學傳播學院碩士在職專班學位論文。2008。1-86。
  3. 方盈潔(2008)。微網誌使用行為研究:以PLURK使用者為例。政治大學廣播電視學研究所學位論文。2008。1-125。
  4. 李紹良(2011)。十五萬人的BBS是如何煉成的:批踢踢實業坊技術演變歷程之研究(1995-2008)。政治大學社會學研究所學位論文。2011。1-127。
  5. 柯秀芬(2012)。國中女教師身體的看與被看-服裝的作用與規範。中正大學教育學研究所學位論文。2012。1-118。