纖維十字型斷面異型度與染色關係之研究

為促進產業經濟效益，依據客戶使用滿意度調查表，得知使用尼龍6.6十字異型斷面POY，經加工假撚過程，織布染色後，成品布布面呈現條斑，有染色不均的現象。有些文獻探討，整體異型纖維的製程分析、流變性質及異型度影響，即熔融紡絲過程中，高分子熔體在異型紡絲孔的流變行為以及紡絲條件對纖維異型度的影響，但根據實務客戶使用經驗得知，經假撚加工織成布進行染色，在同一紡絲條件下，即相同的壓力、黏度、紡絲温度，相同批次的產品，瑕疵客訴事件仍不免發生，因此身為紡織產業的上游的尼龍6.6化學纖維廠應致力提供品質更穩定的原絲產品。本研究係利用數位影像分析系統，量測纖維十字斷面異型度，及編織成襪帶，進行温度60℃染色，以積分球式分光光譜色差計(HunterLab），測襪帶的L*a*b*值，讓色彩分析成為科學，協助處理色彩上之認定，建立纖維十字斷面異型度與染色的對應關係及MR值的迴歸分析。現行每次更換捲取機（Winder）時，更換原因如捲取機故障、定期清理捲取機…等，皆會取樣品編織襪帶作染色檢測，若以L*值來做為MR值預測的機制得以建立，將有助於提高MR值的檢測頻率，確實掌握製程中紡孔使用的情況，是否有老化現象，而影響到異型度。

關鍵字

異型斷面；異型度；染色

並列摘要

Company customers frequently responded that the uneven color issues of dyed clothes products. The potential problem might come from the false twist of the cross-type fibers polyester of partially oriented yarn being processed. Though all production factors are under control, the problem still occurs. How to prevent flaws and maintain the quality of the products is the main aim of this study. Digital Image Process Analyzer is the main experimental tool. It tests the cross-typed fiber shape under different designed factors with proceeding dyeing under 60℃. Moreover, testing L*, a*, and b* with HunterLab is in order to identify color, which provides color value to construct the relationship between cross-typed fibers shape factors and dyeing by the MR Regression Analysis. When a winder changes due to out-of-order or regular maintenance, we take the chance to sample yarns to test the dyeing results. We found that if we take L* as the MR, it is helpful to predict the color issues during the producing process, which reduce the deviated products.