「餐廳廚房」多僅被視為供應飲食服務的處所,過去的學術研究也經常將之視為商業場所而缺乏對於其存在意涵的剖析。然而,對被視為地方飲食文化的指標性餐廳來說,餐廳廚房正是地方特色美食的實際生產場所,廚房中的廚師與小工們,亦展現出獨特的活動方式與組織結構。本文以宜蘭渡小月餐廳為研究個案,探究廚房本身的運作及掌廚職人間的網絡,對此類地方指標性餐廳的廚房進行研究。 本研究以社會學者Bourdieu的場域(Field)論述解構存在廚房中的廚師工作與日常互動,以理解餐廳廚房中的規範與原則,並進一步釐清廚房的場域特質,是建構在良性的資本爭取上,並依此形成廚房中獨有的關係建立方式與群體關係。 研究發現,廚房中基於資本爭取而建立的關係會進一步加深在廚房職人對廚房場域的認同,因此凝聚出廚房空間的地方感知,廚房因此轉而成為文化地理學意義下的「地方」,在廚房中的人們反覆實踐廚房中特質行為的同時,也加強了對該地方的認同與地方感。
Restaurant kitchen is usually regarded as simply a location where food and beverages are produced, while the significance and meanings of restaurant kitchen are largely ignored in academic research. However, when focusing on local food culture, the kitchens of representative local restaurants are exactly the site where local delicacies are practically produced. To explore the unique space and context of restaurant kitchens, this case study examines a representative local restaurant of Taiwanese cuisine – Tu-Hsiao-Yueh restaurant in Yilan (宜蘭渡小月), investigating the networks and operation of restaurant kitchen of Taiwanese cuisine. Conducting the concept of “field” that brought up by Bourdieu to analyze the operation and interactions of those actors in the restaurant kitchen, this research finds out that the field of kitchen is mainly established upon the capital competition among cooks of different levels. At the same time, the sense of “place” is produced in line with such interactions and relationships. In the context, the kitchen could be turned into a “place”, and such a sense of place can be deepened with the repeated performance of those actors in restaurant kitchens.
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