全球化長期衝擊對地方產生兩方面影響:同質化商品對在地傳統產業的威脅、反制同質化所促成的在地化觀光發展。台灣「一鄉鎮一特產」政策的制訂與推動,可說是對全球化衝擊所發展出的在地化觀光策略,也是地方形塑的重要推手。據此,本研究以大甲及其地方特產芋頭作為調查場域與產品,利用 Miele & Murdoch (2002)之「美食美學實踐」觀點,探究大甲芋頭何因而成就出今天盛名。本研究透過行動者網絡理論的研究取徑,以廚藝技術、美食美學及地方形塑發展為三調查構面,針對大甲芋頭美食觀光產業及農民行動者經參與觀察、深入訪談,透過資料分析進行,發現: 1. 全球化刺激地方促進行動者網絡形成,政府政策及美食產業之發展定義出大甲芋頭的品質。2. 芋頭品質的建構,讓消費-生產端納入了地方的歷史脈絡與自然因素,對大甲觀光具有重要影響決策力。
The long-term impact of globalization has resulted in two aspects in the local. One is that homogenous products pose a threat to local traditional industries. The formulation and motivation of the policy “One Town One Product” in Taiwan can be developing strategies in face of threatening globalization. Local agricultural food and specialties are among these products most recognized for symbolizing a place. It is local food tourism that emerges in this background. It is also a significant enhancer to mold a place. According to this, this study investigates the place and taro in Da-jia, Taichung Township. Miele & Murdoch’s (2002) research approach of “aesthetical gastronomy” is adopted to explore how a taro makes Da-jia so popular today. The research is based on actor network theory to examine three fields: cooking tacit knowledge, food localization and food torism industries. It is found that governmental policies and localization for taro quality in gastronomic industries are crucial for tourism strategies to reshape and make representation of Da-jia by using in-depth observation.