四物湯的保健食品化：從物的生命史看中藥在台灣的當代轉化(1990-2008)

安勤之

doi:10.6342/NTU.2008.00757

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四物湯的保健食品化：從物的生命史看中藥在台灣的當代轉化(1990-2008)

From Four Agent Soup to Functional Foods: Biographies of Chinese Herbs in Contemporary Taiwan (1990-2008)

安勤之 , Masters　　Advisor：雷祥麟;吳嘉苓　　

繁體中文 DOI： 10.6342/NTU.2008.00757

保健食品化；藥食如一；藥食同源；曖昧性；中藥產業；中草藥；生命史；物質文化；商品創新；商品演化；四物湯；四物雞精；四物飲；食品產業；健康食品管理法； functional food ； both as drug and food ； ambiguity ； Chinese medicine industry ； Chinese herbs ； biography ； material culture ； commodity innovation ； commodity evolution ； four agents soup ； four agents essence of chicken ； four agents drink ； food industry ； Health Food Control Act

Abstract │ Reference (123) │ Times Cited (7) │ Altmetrics

Abstract 〈TOP〉

本文關心中藥的當代轉化，筆者發現「保健食品化」是當代中藥的重要發展方向。本文透過「物的生命史」作為研究取徑，以四物湯的保健食品化作為研究個案，說明當代中藥的歷史變遷過程。本文透過經驗研究，回答下列三個問題。這三個問題依序是「中藥在什麼樣的歷史條件底下，得以保健食品化」、「具有何種物質文化屬性的中藥，經過什麼樣的生命歷程，得以保健食品化」、「中藥保健食品化的潮流，如何反過來影響中藥產業業者，這些業者如何回應這股潮流」。

針對第一個問題，本文透過回顧保健食品風潮、食品產業變遷以及藥品產業發展、政府相關政策，並且以中藥新藥的研發困境作為反例，說明保健食品如何成為企業以及政府發展經濟的優先考量。保健食品以藥品食品曖昧性，挪用了中藥藥食如一的伸縮彈性，引發政府藥品食品管理政策諸多爭議。「健康食品管理法」施行以後，「健康食品」僅有少數納入政府規範，多數「健康食品」地下化，轉變為「保健食品」，即具有擬似藥品屬性的「食品」。
　
 　「保健食品化」不同於「健康食品化」，後者必須經由政府認證程序，授與資格，方為成為擁有政府保證的「健康食品」。保健食品化的趨勢意味著企業能透過物品的曖昧性，玩弄法令，找到游刃有餘的利潤空間，政府甚至也是陽奉陰違的共謀，協助業者發展保健食品，只要業者共同遵守枱面上的標準即可。保健食品的曖昧性是政府與業者得以陽奉陰違的施力點，不論是飲食物的內容、形態、廣告標示或者販售地點等面向上，都可能突顯飲食物的曖昧性，使得飲食物得以轉化成為保健食品。這股保健食品化的暗潮，甚至推動了「健康食品管理法」的修正，使得健康食品認證標準逐漸放寬。「陽奉」的規則受到「陰違」的潮流而改變了。儘管如此，新的規則至今尚未明朗化。對於企業來說，「保健食品」比起「藥品」與「健康食品」，仍是風險較低，可預期利潤較高的優先投資選擇。

針對第二個問題，本文透過四物作為個案，細致討論四物保健食品化的生命歷程。首先說明四物的文化屬性，描述四物與女性月經文化的關係，並且探討四物成為四物雞湯或四物排骨的食療化現象。隨著雞精保健巿場發展，四物雞湯成為企業創意發想來源，創造出四物雞精。隨後統一公司與白蘭氏公司為四物雞精大打廣告戰，賦予四物新形象，也催生了佳格公司玫瑰四物飲。佳格公司不斷透過廣告對四物飲進行促銷，帶動女性飲品消費熱潮，四物產品推陳出新，茶包、藥錠形態的四物紛紛上巿。本文指出商品創新必須考慮物質的文化屬性以及在地文化脈絡，並對商品演化進行分析，討論了雞精到各式各樣的四物飲品的發展歷程，說明商品創新的層次有三，包括精類、雞精、與雞精添加物三個層次，分別發展出蠔精、蜆精；四物雞精、十全雞精；以及四物飲等等商品。商品創新結合的元素有兩種，一種是傳統元素，如添加漢方，譬如蔘仲四物飲；或是時尚元素，如玫瑰花草茶、青木瓜燉排骨，而創造出玫瑰四物飲、青木瓜四物飲。最後，則是形態的創新，譬如改成錠劑、茶包等形式，如四物錠、四物茶包。

隨著四物飲品熱賣，不同的行動者也參與四物保健食品化的行列。譬如順天堂以專業藥廠加入戰局、中藥房結合網路拍賣，以游擊戰方式搶佔巿場，而健康食品公司則以不同產品形態，以及有機食品通路，另闢財路。這些不同的行動者，帶著過去習氣形塑四物產品，改變四物產品的物質屬性以及社會屬性，譬如食品廠重視口味調配以及廣告行銷，而藥廠重視有效成份比例。這些行動者以先佔巿場的對手作為假想敵，在將四物產品商品化的過程中一方面模仿對手，另一方面採取不同的策略。譬如順天堂即以佳格食品公司作為假想敵，一方面重視口味調配，另一方面則以藥廠製藥的專業形象與食品廠競爭。中藥房或者保健食品公司等小規模的公司並直接與規模大的藥廠或食品廠正面衝突。他們開拓新巿場，豐富了四物保健食品發展的可能性。不同形態的四物保健食品，說明了保健食品底下可以再分出藥品與食品的光譜，給予人們不同的想像與感受。四物錠、四物飲、四物茶包，作為保健食品，依循分布於由藥品到食品光譜之上。四物錠是最像藥品的保健食品，而四物茶包則是最像食品的保健食品。

針對第三個問題。本文指出，在中藥保健食品化的過程中，不論是中藥廠或中藥房，並不僅是死守傳統，消極地悲嘆古法的毀棄。他們積極挪用保健食品化的曖昧性，以自身中藥專業，結合工業技術，創造出中藥保健食品，成為中藥保健食品化的潮流中波濤之一。本文提到的順天堂以及大方中藥房，皆是能因時而變，順應潮流的行動者，他們將中藥轉化成為具有藥食曖昧性的中藥保健食品，使中藥能以嶄新形式回到人們的日常生活。同時，我們也看到不論是大藥廠，或者是小藥房，各有其展現能動性的方式，因應社會結構變遷，找到生存空間。

總而言之，本文研究發現以下幾點。第一點，日常生活實作具有逆滲透官方制度的能量。譬如說中藥藥食如一的特性在保健食品化的潮流當中，造成政府藥品食品管制的爭議；保健食品潮流推動「健康食品管理法」進行修改。第二點，代表著中醫藥傳統的行動者，如中藥廠及中藥商，在保健食品化的潮流當中，亦能找到反撲點，將保健食品對傳統中醫藥的侵襲，轉變成為商機。第三點，不同背景投入四物商品化過程的行動者，會以過去習氣形塑四物商品。第四點，中藥保健食品雖然作為食品，但是透過形態可以再將保健食品細分為偏藥品的保健食品(例如藥錠)與偏食品的保健食品(例如茶包)。第五點，四物湯所具有的藥食如一伸縮彈性，促使四物能夠創造性轉化成各種保健食品，遊走於藥品與食品兩端，創造出擬似藥品的曖昧性。

Parallel Abstract 〈TOP〉

This thesis concerns the contemporary transformation of Chinese herbs. It is an important development that functional foods have become one of the new forms of Chinese herbs in the contemporary Taiwan. In order to explain this phenomenon, I have taken the ‘biography approach of things” as the main methodology applied in this thesis, and chose the Four Agent Soup as the topic of my case study.

I hereby presented three questions. First, what are the historical conditions which have made Chinese herbs transform and thus be categorized into the functional foods? Second, how, i.e., by what kind of life process and cultural attribution of a thing itself, does Chinese herbs become functional foods? Third, how does the Chinese medicine industry respond to the said transformation of Chinese herbs?

Five conclusions have been reached after the research. First, the practice of everyday life is energetic to change the government institution. In the trend of becoming the functional foods, Chinese medicine as both drug and food triggered a controversy over the control of food and drug within the government authorities. The trend of the functional foods production also urged a revision of the Health Food Control Act.

Second, the proponents and promoters of traditional Chinese medicine, such as the owners of Chinese medicine stores or factories, have adapted themselves to the trend of the functional foods.

Third, the actors from different disciplines have brought their own habitus while commodifying the traditional Four Agent Soup , and therefore have endued these products with some characteristics of their own disciplines. For example, the food industry will change the image of the Four Agents Soup by advertisements, and improves the flavor and the aroma of it. In contrast, the traditional Chinese medicine industry will emphasize the curative effect due to their professional background in manufacturing drugs.

Fourth, the functional foods may have more sophisticated classification between the two opposite poles of food and drug by their presentations. That is, if the presentation of the functional food is like tea bags, people will be inclined to deem it to be food. On the contrary, if it is designed as a tablet, it may be considered as drug. The drinkable functional foods may be considered as a combination of food and drug.

Fifth, the duality of the Four Agents Soup as both the drug and the food makes the Four Agents Soup products able to move in-between the line of the drug and the food, so that the Four Agents Soup products may disguise as the medication to confuse the consumers.

Keywords: functional food, both as drug and food, ambiguity, Chinese medicine industry, biography, material culture, commodity innovation, commodity evolution, four agents soup, four agents essence of chicken, four agents drink, food industry, Health Food Control Act.

Reference ( 123 ) 〈TOP〉

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Bourdieu, P.（2002）。男性統治（劉暉譯）。深圳：海天出版社。
連結：

Times Cited (7) 〈TOP〉

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