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  • 學位論文

傳統社會審美觀之研究–以金蓮文化的藝術表現為例

A Study About Aesthetic Conception of Traditional Society— The Case Study of Footbinding

指導教授 : 江韶瑩
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摘要


鞋子的歷史,源遠流長,而鞋子的發明,最初是以實用性為主,具有保護、禦寒等功用。隨著人類文明的發展,社會組織的擴大,鞋子的存在不再只是單純的必備品,它反映了一個民族的風俗及生活習慣,也成為了人類社會階級制度的表徵之一。 金蓮文化的出現,恰巧印證了上述的說法,它是中國封建制度,男尊女卑的真理之下的產物,卻也是中國史上出現的第一個為表現美,而以幾近自殘的方式追求自我實踐的流行文化。在中國的三大陋習之中,纏足被點名是壓抑女性、物化女性的工具,纏腳的痛苦就如同被拷問般的折磨,「小腳一雙,眼淚一缸」,就是纏腳過程的最佳寫照;儘管如此,金蓮風俗卻也流傳了千年之久,其原因值得後世深入探究。另一方面,金蓮文化的出現,將精細刺繡推向巔峰,每一雙三寸金蓮與飾褲,都是婦女們費盡巧思,一針一線的完成,只為了讓「腳」成為眾人眼中最顯目的焦點。而這份心意,呈現的不只是華麗的足上風情,更可從中窺探出古代女性長久以來在中華文化中所扮演的角色。 本文以文獻探討、田野調查、實際分析的方式,探討傳統社會對於小腳美醜的要求,進一步地歸納出三寸金蓮相關文物的裝飾美學,再從足部延伸,探究因纏足而塑造出的非自然身體美學,客觀分析這套獨特的審美標準,盡可能的將這段女性身體史呈現清楚的脈絡。

並列摘要


Shoes, with a long history, were invented initially for practical use such as for protection and keeping warm. As civilizations continue to develop and society further expands, shoes have become more than a simple necessity as they also present the habits and customs of a nation, and have become one of the symbols of the social class system. One evidence is the appearance of bound feet, which was derived from females being the inferior class in the Chinese feudal system, but which is also the representation of the first fashion trend in Chinese history which was considered a standard of beauty during that time and in which women seek for self-fulfillment by self-infliction. As one of the three forms of abuse in China, bound feet were considered a tool of repressing and materializing females. The processing of binding feet brought great pains just like being tortured, hence the saying, “a pair of bound feet cost a pool of tears”. However, this custom had existed for a thousand years thus the reason for such is worth deeply exploring. Besides, this trend of bound feet pushed embroidery to its highest form of intricacy. Consequently, both the three-inch shoes and the pants were made by hands full of women’s ingenuity. The hope of attracting people with one’s feet not only paved the way for elegance in shoe design, but also indicated the position of women in Chinese history. Through literature review, field survey and model analysis, the study discusses why traditional society preferred small feet, and further gives a background on shoe design from the related relics. Then the study extends to the physical abnormalities caused by binding feet and analyzes cases objectively, aiming to clearly show the history related to such custom.

參考文獻


2006 〈未知的誘惑:纏足史研究的典範轉移〉 《近代婦女史研究》 14: 243-253。
Beverley Jackson
1997《Splendid Slippers –A Thousand Year of An Erotic Tradition》。California。
2001《Every Step a Lotus : Shoes for Bound Feet》。California。University of California Press。

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