從割稻飯的點心到常民日常飲食－萬丹飯湯初探

From Rice-Reaping Dimsum to Common Diet --- A Study of “Png4-thng” in Wandan

林宥嫻(Yu-Hsien,Lin)

指導教授 ： 潘江東

國立高雄餐旅大學/廚藝學院/台灣飲食文化產業研究所/碩士(2013年)

https://doi.org/10.6825/NKUHT.2013.00058

摘要

本文研究具有地方特色的庶民飲食－飯湯，以屏東縣萬丹鄉為研究場域，希望能記錄飯湯的形成背景以及割稻生活經驗，勾勒出獨具萬丹地方風味的飯湯；並描繪出當地社群習以為常的飯湯飲食文化，如何以各種面貌頻繁的現身於生活中，形成地方獨特的飲食圖像。
本文運用立意抽樣的方式選擇研究對象，選取四個不同背景世代的16位在地居民，進行深度訪談。研究結果發現，萬丹小農耕作模式與相互換工的傳統，發展出「倒稻排」的割稻方式，形成三餐正餐加一次點心的特殊形式，顛覆傳統割稻飯一天吃五餐的認知。當地居民「習慣熱食、喜多湯水且具有飽足感」的飲食傾向，發展出“飯菜混食”“以湯泡飯”的特殊米食料理。「飯湯」原為農婦挑到田裡食用的「點心」，在田埂邊同鍋共食的飲食經驗，逐漸成為當地割稻飯的代名詞。
飯湯深深影響當地婚喪喜慶、廟會節慶、居家及外賣的飲食內涵，成為地方性飲食文化的代表。選用食材以經濟實惠為考量，必備的食材有豬肉、鮪魚、豆枝及在地時蔬；其從生產到食用，無需高級的食材、精細的刀工，更無繁文縟節的進食儀式，將地方性格表露無遺。

關鍵字

飯湯 ； 割稻飯 ； 倒稻排 ； 萬丹味 ； 吃菜頭

並列摘要

The research studies a local common dish- Png4-thng in Wandan Township, Pingtung County. The main purpose is to record the development of Png4-thng and the rice-reaping experience, which are the unique features of Png4-thng for Wandan local character. Furthermore, the research shows how the local food, Png4-thng , appears in the Wandan locals’ daily lives and has become a token of Wandan food culture.
Purposive sampling was used in the research to select subjects.Sixteen local citizens from four different backgrounds and generations were chosen to conduct an in-depth interview. The research found that the traditions of peasant farming and worker exchange in Wandan led to a type of rice-reaping way, making rice stalks fallen while reaping. Unlike the traditional rice-reaping practice providing five meals a day, a new dietary habits was developed: three main meals and a snack per day. The local people prefer haivng hot, soupy, and easily-filled food, thus developing some typical rice dishes based on the rules of “mixture of rice and vegetabels ” and “rice served in soup.” Png4-thng used to be a kind of “snack” served in fields when farmers farmed. Due to the life experience of sharing the same pot of Png4-thng beside ridges between fields, Png4-thn has gradually become a synonym for the local rice-reaping food.
Png4-thng deeply influences Wandan locals in various aspects such as wedding, funerals, temple fairs, festivals, daily lives, and other diets.Therefore, Png4-thng can be considered as a representation of the local food culture. Economy is the main consideration when choosing ingredients for Png4-thng. Pork, tuna, bean jujubes, and local vegetables are the main required ingredients. No lavish ingredients, fine culinary technoques, and complicated table manners are needed in the proceses of making and having Png4-thng, which totally expresses its local character .

並列關鍵字

Png4-thng ； rice-reaping food ； rice-reaping way ； Wandan local character ； chiah2-chhai-thau5

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