台灣花布類型語彙之研究與創作

The Study and Creation of Pattern Language on Taiwan Fabric

龔郁鈞(Yu-Chun Kung)

指導教授 ： 林俊男

共同指導教授 ： 黃士哲

國立虎尾科技大學/文理學院/休閒遊憩研究所/碩士(2015年)

https://doi.org/10.6827/NFU.2015.00126

摘要

全球化(globalization)正在我們的身邊不斷進展，透過科技、網路、大眾傳播和交通運輸等的發展，多元文化的交流也趨向頻繁；另一方面，在全球化進展的同時，尊重多元文化與強調在地文化的風潮也從未減弱。近年來，台灣本土意識高漲的影響下，傳統文化產業以及復古的文化符碼被重新審視，許多充滿復古台灣味的物件再度被提起，其中以花布最具有代表台灣文化意象，這個被稱為「台灣花布」本身的象徵獨特意義的圖案及俗艷的色彩，烙印在許多人的集體文化記憶裡，形成易於辨認的文化符碼，在視覺美感與復古塑造的催化下，儼然成為台灣文化的代表圖樣。本研究以「台灣花布」為研究對象，目的在與探究台灣花布的風格特徵與義涵，並透過文獻資料的分析，歸納出台灣花布之定義及影響圖樣風格演變的各項因素，並藉由圖像學(iconology)，探討分析台灣花布的圖樣、色彩與造型特徵及意涵，建構出台灣花布的類型語彙。最後以本研究所建構的台灣花布的類型語彙，透過實踐創作，賦予台灣傳統花布新的生命，為台灣花布增添文化內容，促使台灣花布的多元化。

以下為本研究分析歸納與結果：台灣花布慣用的元素及語彙歸納出三大項目，分別是「原理層」、「組構層」、「元素層」，在「原理層」部分為四類：「a.圖面構成、b.形式原理、c.構成原理、d.配色原理。」而在「組構層」部分為十三類：「a1.花形元素、a2.動物形元素、a3.幾何元素、a4.器物形元素、a5.點線形元素、b1.平衡、b2.韻律、b3.對比、c1.平移、c2.迴轉、c3.平行鏡射、d1.類似調和、d2.對比調和。」最後在「元素層」中a1.花形元素共為二十類、a2.動物形元素為六類、a3.幾何形元素為八類、a4.器物形元素為七類、a5.點線形元素為三類、d1.類似調和為兩類、d2.對比調和為三類。並經由研究樣本分析歸納出四十四種台灣花布的類型語彙及四十六種潛在的類型語彙以即創作上的應用。期望透過本研究，讓台灣花布這項獨特的文化資產，能在設計領域以及學術研究上有更深入的探討，並經由本研究所歸納出的台灣花布類型語彙，提供設計師在設計時，有更多的文化素材可運用，讓台灣花布的設計能力能更加提升且使花布產業的文化價值提高。

關鍵詞：台灣花布、全球化與在地化、類型語彙

關鍵字

台灣花布 ； 全球化與在地化 ； 類型語彙

並列摘要

Globalization has been constantly developed around us. By the development of technology, mess communication and transportation, multicultural communications increase frequently, and the trends to respect multi-culture and the emphasis to local culture have not been reduced. In recent years, traditionally cultural industries and cultural codes are reexamined and increasingly influenced by the local ideology of Taiwan. A number of materials with fully traditionally Taiwanese impressions are recalled. Taiwanese cultural fabrics are an outstanding one among them. These so-called fabrics symbolize exclusive meanings, patterns, and seemingly gaudy colors. The impressions deepen the cultural memory of community on people, forming an easily recognizable code. They are catalyst in visual esthetics and traditional formation. They formally turn out to be a significant pattern in Taiwan culture. Therefore, the study takes Taiwan fabrics as study object, and the purpose of the study tends to examine its stylistic features and meanings. Firstly, the study classifies definitions of Taiwan fabrics and any possible factors which influence how those pattern styles evolve. Secondly, the study also analyzes the patterns of Taiwan fabrics, colors, stylistic features, and meanings by iconology. They have developed pattern languages in Taiwan fabrics. Finally, the study will create a new design for Traditional Taiwan fabrics by the pattern languages studied.

Categorizations and results in the study are as follows. The study categorizes three main items in the factors and languages of Taiwan fabric custom. These are theorem layers, constrictive layers, and elemental layers. Among them, there are four parts within the theorem layers: a) the components of figure and dimension, b) formative theorem, developing theorem, and color theorem. Another thirteen parts in constructive layers: a1) flowered elements, a2) animal elements, a3) geometric elements, a4) concrete elements, a5) dotted-line elements, b1) balance, b2) rhythms, b3) contrast, c1) paralleling, c2) returning, c3) paralleling reflection, d1) similar harmony, and d2) contrasting harmony. Eventually, there are still other parts in the elemental layers: a1) twenty categorizations in the flowered elements, a2) six categorizations in animal elements, a3) eight categorizations in geometric elements, a4) seven categorizations in concrete elements, a5) three categorizations in dotted-line, d1) two categorizations in similar harmony, d1) three categorizations in contrast harmony. The analytical categorizes forty-four pattern languages on Taiwan fabric and forty-six potential pattern languages that can apply to the creation. The study suggests that design field and academy research could study further on Taiwan fabric for this exclusively cultural heritage. The study also suggests designers to create more cultural factors through the pattern languages of Taiwan fabric. The study recommends fabric industries to increase cultural values to develop design abilities on Taiwan fabric.

Keywords: Taiwan fabrics, globalization and localization, pattern languages.

並列關鍵字

Taiwan fabrics ； globalization and localization ； pattern languages

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