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  • 學位論文

客家餐廳評鑑制度之檢視:新北市與苗栗縣個案分析

Hakka Restaurant Survey System Review – Cases Study of Taipei City and Miaoli County, Taiwan

指導教授 : 江明修
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摘要


摘 要 台灣客家飲食文化蘊含客家族群之傳統精神,承載先民生活型態,反映客家族群所處環境及社會結構及互動方式,對於客家地區常民傳統信仰及價值觀亦展現於食材的運用處理中。 近年來,由於台灣社會及經濟結構及政策轉變,「客家飲食文化」成為發展台灣的「客家意象」過程中的主軸之一,「客族傳統飲食」居中扮演著重要的角色,成為各界關注的焦點及運用的題材,並取得反映社會文化權力關係的顯著關鍵地位(賴守誠,2007),同時,具體反映了台灣社會變遷的歷程,與客族於台灣的發展彼此相互對照。 客家飲食文化的傳承媒介因生活型態有所轉移,昔日由客家婦女在自家「灶下」代代傳遞的客族飲食隨著工商社會發展及外食人口增加的利基下轉型成為「客家餐飲產業」,擔負起客家飲食文化傳承的角色,此為客家飲食文化轉變的階段性「守門人」轉移現象。「公部門」為推動政策或拓展客家餐飲產業,持續與民間及學界合作舉辦周期性或主題式之餐飲評鑑活動,以輔導產業及顯性化對客家文化及產業為目的而投入資源舉辦「客家餐廳評鑑活動」。民間組織、人士與學者專家則試圖建立常態性的餐飲評鑑模式,透過大眾媒體表述所見及建立評等機制,藉此形成論述而提升其影響力,此為客家飲食文化轉變「守門人」的再次轉移現象。以台灣北部地區「客家餐廳評鑑活動」而言,此階段由公部門主導,民間組織、人士與學者專家為輔。 本研究彙整台灣北部地區之餐飲評鑑活動之外,亦收集探討國際間餐飲評鑑系統的相關資訊,進行餐飲評鑑活動執行狀況比較,相關建議如下: 1、餐飲業評鑑制度須建立於公平及公開之原則,透過「守門人」間的對話及期望溝通,以客家飲食文化特色(文本)推展及產業(實體)發展作為雙主軸,擴展互利互用模式,為客家飲食文化傳承形成向下紮根的力量。「公部門」掌握政策擬定權及相關資源,乃為最具影響力之飲食文化守門人。 2、政經環境促成客家餐飲的商品化及產業化,而餐飲評鑑活動則促使客家餐飲品質的提升,在市場經營及消費者權益考量下,客家菜特色呈現方式必須轉化,建議應朝向符合現代飲食趨勢下、凸顯客家飲食文化及客家餐飲特色之風味料理餐飲發展。 3、台灣北部地區所舉辦之客家餐飲評鑑以苗栗縣最具規模及成果,產業化成效顯著,由國際間餐飲評鑑系統得知,以長期發展而言,為確保餐飲評鑑活動之公正性、公開性及民眾參與要求,進而發展為「具飲食文化傳承能力」的評鑑系統,則需要「中立於產業」的執行組織。

並列摘要


ABSTRACT Taiwan Hakka food culture contains the Hakka traditional spirit of ancestors bearing lifestyle, reflecting the environment in which the Hakka ethnic group, organization members and the way of social interaction, or even reflects the beliefs of Hakka and the food and traditional values. In recent years, due to social and economic structure and policy changes, "Hakka food culture" in the development of Taiwan''s "Hakka image" process, "traditional Hakka food" plays an important role as the focus of public attention and achieved reflect the remarkable of the key position of power relations. The specific changes also reflect the history of Taiwan and the development of Hakka in Taiwan as well. Hakka food culture medium for the transmission to transfer of lifestyle, the former by the Hakka women in their own "domestic kitchen" passed from generation to generation Hakka food, with the current business and social development the Hakka food industry undertake the role to pass down the Hakka food culture heritage, this is the phase shift of Hakka food culture gatekeeper transfer phenomenon. To promote Hakka food and beverage industry, the government set up a policy for ongoing in collaboration with civil associations, academia and the Hakka restaurant holders to proceed periodic restaurant evaluation activities aimed at assisting industries and the dominance of the Hakka culture and industry attention. The non-governmental rganizations (NGO) and experts are specifically going to establish an evaluation system which be seen by the cooperation with mass media and try to define a rating mode in order to enhance its influence in Hakka food industry. This is the Hakka food culture gatekeeper re-transferring phenomena which the government is the decision maker in said activities held in northern Taiwan. After compiling the study of Hakka food development in northern Taiwan with the collection of the related information of international restaurant evaluation system worldwide, the discussions and recommendations are as follows: 1. the restaurant industry evaluation system must be built on the principles of fairness and openness, through the communication of gatekeepers expectations on the Hakka food culture (original text) and promotion of industrial (physical development) as the two-axis, extending mutual benefit model as the garden of Hakka food culture heritage rooted in. And, during the process, the government is master of policy development and related resources which shows the most influential gatekeepers in the Hakka food culture changes. 2. Owing to the political and economic environment changes in Taiwan and the commercialization of Hakka food and beverage industry, the restaurant evaluation activities is to promote Hakka food and beverage and enhance the quality of business and consumer interests in this market. The Hakka cuisine features must be translated into the presentation, recommendations should be directed to comply with modern diet trends, highlighting the Hakka food culture, cooking characteristics and specific flavor. The Hakka restaurant survey held in Miaoli County''s is the largest and achievements. To establish the long-term evaluation activities to ensure fair, openness and public participation requirements with the "ability of preserving and conveying the culture heritage,an independent organization is a applicable solution.

參考文獻


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被引用紀錄


吳璧君(2015)。以劇場理論探討客家餐廳的創意經營策略與文化體驗設計〔碩士論文,國立交通大學〕。華藝線上圖書館。https://doi.org/10.6842%2fNCTU.2015.00377
黃鉯玲(2012)。客家飲食傳承與族群認同〔碩士論文,國立中央大學〕。華藝線上圖書館。https://www.airitilibrary.com/Article/Detail?DocID=U0031-1903201314450793
呂子譽(2014)。連鎖餐飲業評鑑指標建構之研究〔碩士論文,朝陽科技大學〕。華藝線上圖書館。https://www.airitilibrary.com/Article/Detail?DocID=U0078-2611201410184889
楊乃蓉(2015)。客家元素融入客家美食指標建構之研究:以桃園市客家認證餐廳為例〔碩士論文,國立中央大學〕。華藝線上圖書館。https://www.airitilibrary.com/Article/Detail?DocID=U0031-0412201512045274

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