劉克襄糧食書寫研究

An Study on Liu Kashiang’s Food Writing

鄭楣潔(Cheng Mei chieh)

指導教授 ： 江寶釵

國立中正大學/文學院/台灣文學與創意應用研究所/碩士(2014年)

摘要

劉克襄的自然書寫從八○年代開始，以「鳥類」的觀察記錄出發，揭露生態環境汙染與破壞等環保問題。至八○年代末，他開始鑽研百年前西方探險家旅行台灣的文獻，進行舊路歷史踏查。九○年代中期，在「社區總體營造」與生態旅遊風氣影響下，以綠色思維轉向經營都市空間。二○○○年後進入鄉鎮市集遊走。至近年《失落的蔬果》、《男人的菜市場》、《嶺南本草新錄》出版，可看出其關懷糧食生態的問題。

本論文以劉克襄糧食書寫為研究主題焦點，研究主軸有三個，首先分析劉克襄從山林生態到糧食生態觀察的自然寫作脈絡如何形成。其次，探討劉克襄糧食書寫所表現的關照面向。第三，了解劉克襄表達糧食的藝術特徵與變化。

研究結果顯示，其一，他從早期鳥類觀察中，已注意到鳥類所生存的山林植群環境背景與鳥類活動息息相關。接著，在人生歷程轉變過程，從生物攝食的觀察、野味嚐鮮等都激發他探索植物食用證據的思惟。當足跡進入鄉鎮市集，則多向思考糧食種類所潛藏的生態環境倫理與歷史意義，其創作意識可說都是心繫對生態環境的關懷。其二，作者受西方生態思潮影響甚深，在書寫上也往往能與社會脈動結合，以此基礎，糧食觀照面向包括糧食生產鏈與土地倫理的關係、在地化食物經銷系統的實踐情形、蔬果「失落」的危機、糧食與產業觀光市場的互動等等。其三，書寫的藝術表現以下特徵與變化，建構記憶特徵上，糧食召喚情感的圖象從童年記憶擴大到在台灣遊走的經驗。在博物學式的表述上，從史料記載的描寫轉變成細膩呈現糧食在台灣、香港兩地區域的異同。在修辭示現的特徵上，從聚焦糧食口感形貌的視角，轉移到對糧食生態關懷的表意描摹。

本論文對劉克襄糧食生態的思考精神之研究可作為台灣目前解決糧食危機的力量。其次，作者的觀察視角與創作題材，可觀照自然書寫日後發展的方向與作為有意書寫此文類的創作者之參考價值。

關鍵字

自然書寫 ； 糧食 ； 劉克襄

並列摘要

Liu Kashiang’s natural writing started with the observation of birds in the 1980s and has revealed the environmental problems of ecological pollution and damages. In the late 80s, he started to research on the documents a hundred years ago on the western explorers’ journey to Taiwan and conducted the historical investigation. In the mid 90s, under the influence of “community development” and ecological tourism, his interest turned from the environmental issues to the urban space. After 2000, he visited the markets of towns. In the recent years, his concern for the issues of food ecology has been seen from the publication of Lost Vegetables and Fruit, Men’s Markets, A New Collection of Plants in Lingnan.

In this thesis, I study on Liu Kashaing’s food writing in terms of the three issues. First, I will analyze how Liu’s context of natural writing is formed, from natural ecology to the observation of food ecology. Second, I will discuss the concerns Liu has shown for the food writing. Third, I will try to conclude Liu’s narrative strategies and aesthetics in describing food.

According to my study, first, from his early observation of birds, he noticed that the vegetation of the forests and mountains had a lot to do with the birds’ behaviors. After that, as he experienced some changes in life, both the observation of the creatures’ consumption of food and the fresh taste of the wild plants inspired him to explore the edible evidence of the plants. As he visited the towns, he started to think about the possibility of making certain plants the major crops of the local agricultural industry. He can also infer the local growing conditions from the vegetables and fruit at the farmers’ markets. In his writing, he shows a lot of concerns for the environment and ecology. Second, Liu is deeply influenced by the western ecological thinking. He connects his writing with the social context. Therefore, his concern for food includes the relationship between the food producing chain and land ethics, the practical situation of the marketing system of the localized food, the crisis of the “lost” vegetables and fruits, and the interaction between the food and tourism industry. Third, Liu’s aesthetics in wiring is expressed in the following features. Food writing recalls personal memories, distinguishes ethnic identity, and accentuates the generational and social changes. Food writing presents the contents and in-depths perspectives of the museum study. The language of writing shows both sense and sensibility, science and imagination.

The study of Liu Kashiang’s thinking on food ecology can become a force to solve the food crisis at present in Taiwan. In addition, Liu’s observation, perspective, and creation can serve as a guideline for the development of natural writing in the future and as a reference for the writers who intend to engage in this type of writing.

並列關鍵字

natural writing ； food ； Liu Kashiang

參考文獻

劉克襄，《在測天島》（臺北：前衛出版，1985）

劉克襄，《荒野之心》（臺北：前衛出版，1986）

劉克襄，《漂鳥的故鄉》（台北：前衛出版，1984）

劉克襄，《隨鳥走天涯》（臺北：洪範出版，1985）

劉克襄，《消失中的亞熱帶》（臺中：晨星出版，1986）