滋血液，養神氣：日治到戰後臺灣的養鱉知識、養殖環境與食療文化

郭忠豪

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P35 - 77

Humanities > Anthropology & Ethnic Studies
Social Sciences > Sociology

DOI： 10.30152/JCDC

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滋血液，養神氣：日治到戰後臺灣的養鱉知識、養殖環境與食療文化

Nourishing the Blood and Cultivating the Spirit: Breeding, Dietary Therapy, and Consumption of Soft-Shelled Turtles in Taiwan from the Japanese Colonial Era to the Present

郭忠豪(KUO Chung-hao)

中國飲食文化； 15卷1期 (2019 / 04 / 01) ， P35 - 77

繁體中文

臺灣史；日本殖民；鱉；養鱉業；食療； Taiwanese history ； Japanese colonization ； turtles ； turtle husbandry ； dietary therapy

Abstract │ Reference (127) │ Times Cited (4) │ Altmetrics

Abstract 〈TOP〉

Parallel Abstract 〈TOP〉

In modern Taiwan, soft-shell turtleshave functioned chiefly as a dietary therapy. In line with traditional Chinese medicine (TCM), the Taiwanese have long regarded turtles as a dietary therapy that can nourish yin, cool blood, and benefit qi. Taiwanese have believed that, in particular, turtles' shells, heads, blood, meat, bladders, and eggs have salubrious effects. However, because turtles were traditionally hard to acquire, they rarely appeared on Taiwanese dining tables and were available for purchase mainly in specialty stores and seafood restaurants. Thus it was that, in the Qing era, Taiwanese tended to use wild turtles as medicine. By contrast, in the Japanese colonial era, Japanese regarded turtles as a precious food, and to satisfy demand for turtle products in their homeland, the colonizers in Taiwan launched a turtle-husbandry program aimed at improving incubation, feeding, and shipping methods. After World War Two, Taiwan's newly established Kuomintang government promoted only the most monetarily valuable aquatic products. Because the consumption value of turtles was considerably less than that of Milkfish, Tilapia, and shellfish, turtle husbandry on the island declined to the level of a side business. In the 1990s, however, the celebrated Chinese track-and-field team known as Team Ma claimed that eating turtle products enhanced physical vitality, triggering a spike in China's consumption of turtle products. Taiwanese farmers, with their skills in turtle husbandry, quickly responded to the renewed demand, revitalizing the island's turtle industry, which continues to thrive to this day. In examining the themes of husbandry and consumption in Taiwanese history, this paper argues that four main factors - TCM principles, Taiwan's evolving turtle-breeding system, colonial Japan's aquatic policy, and the Team Ma phenomenon - shaped the significance of turtles in modern Taiwanese history.

Reference ( 127 ) 〈TOP〉

安勤之(2010)。論中藥作為保健食品：以四物湯的生命史為例探討藥品與食品範疇的革命。科技、醫療與社會，11，89-148。
連結：
吳文星(2014)。日治時期臺灣的水產教育—以師資分析為中心。國史館館刊，41，43-75。
連結：
張哲嘉(2005)。大黃迷思：清代對西洋禁運大黃的策略思維與文化意涵。中央研究院近代史研究所集刊，47，43-100。
連結：
薛月順(2013)。美國「洛克斐勒基金會」與臺灣水產養殖業的發展。國史館館刊，36，99-139。
連結：
薛月順(2010)。臺灣「草蝦王國」的形成（1968-1988）—政府與民間扮演的角色。國史館館刊，24，139-176。
連結：

Times Cited ( 4 ) 〈TOP〉

Altmetrics

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