- 期刊
正針、反針之針織伸縮與紗線變化研究
Research on the Stretch and Yarn Variations of Knitting with Plain and Purl Stitches
摘要
這篇論文聚焦於針織組織的效果呈現，尤其著重於正針、反針使用在多種不同創作出的圖面織造後，兩者交接產生的伸縮效果。研究的動機為研究者在PRAXES品牌實習期間接觸到針織機台與編織後，發現針織布料基礎的正針、反針在交接處會因張力使平面的針織組織產生伸縮變化。因此想以這種因組織正反兩面交錯而產生的伸縮變化，做布片設計上的研究，並設想將開發出的針織組織提供給PRAXES品牌中毛衣設計的素材。實驗期間使用14針機台進行了一系列測試，探索正針、反針使用在多種不同創作出的圖面織造後的紋理效果。這些測試結果做出的布片將記錄下不同針織組織因各種交錯和本身彈性所產生的伸展和縮放，並將設計出的布片根據其展現的特性，思考能用在成衣上的可能性。在最後的研究結果中，將組織模擬在3D CLO穿著後的效果。而最終伸縮實驗總結為：實體的針織組織伸縮度與SDS-ONE Design系統模擬的伸縮仍會有差距，且當正針與反針的排列方式分佈不均勻時，則模擬與實際織造的差距最為明顯。軟體對於羅紋的伸縮無法進行預判模擬，模擬的伸縮僅限於垂直方向而非根據作者定義的組織方向進行伸縮。但對於其他織法分佈均勻的組織或是緹花則伸縮幅度相差較不大，可為業界作為開發服裝的參考。
並列摘要
This paper focuses on the effects of knitted structures, specifically emphasizing the interplay between knit and purl stitches and the stretch effects created at their junctions. The study was motivated by the researcher's internship at the PRAXES brand, where exposure to knitting machines and fabric construction revealed how the tension between knit and purl stitches causes variations in the flat surface, leading to stretch and contraction effects. The research aims to explore this phenomenon and develop fabric swatches based on the stretch variations caused by alternating knit and purl stitches. The ultimate goal is to provide PRAXES with innovative knitted materials for sweater designs. During the experimental phase, a 14-gauge knitting machine was used to test various patterns combining knit and purl stitches, analyzing the resulting textures. The swatches created from these tests documented how different knit structures and their inherent elasticity led to varying degrees of stretch and contraction. The designs were then evaluated for their potential applications in garment production based on their characteristics. The final research outcomes were simulated using CLO 3D to visualize the effects of stretch in wear. The key findings concluded that discrepancies exist between the actual stretchability of knitted fabrics and the stretch simulated by the SDS-ONE Design system. The most significant differences were observed when knit and purl stitches were unevenly distributed. Notably, the software was unable to accurately predict ribbing stretch, as its simulations were limited to vertical directions rather than the structural orientation defined by the designer. However, for evenly distributed patterns or jacquard knits, the differences in stretch were minimal, making the simulations a useful reference for garment development in the industry.